Am I Materialistic?

Naturally, being in fashion, I have a deep love for things like clothing and shoes, yet I never considered myself materialistic until someone joked about it a couple months ago.  To an extent, like any fashion lover, I am materialistic.  The ridiculous amount of joy I get from a good pair of shoes should technically be enough to send me to an insane asylum, but is being materialistic really just about wanting and liking things?  Or is there something deeper that distinguishes between being materialistic and being a fashion addict?

When you're materialistic, you ascribe value to objects that exceeds the value you ascribe to things such as relationships and other people.  Right off the bat, I don't seem to qualify as materialistic.  I do attribute excessive symbolic value to fashion pieces, but that does not mean I value my handbags over my friends. The value of fashion to me is different from the value of relationships, and the two cannot be compared in parallel.

The value of relationships is the fulfillment they bring - they're what make me happy with the overall state of my life.  The value of fashion is the dose of satisfaction it infuses into my daily life - it gives me confidence and makes me happy knowing such amazing creative talent exists.  There's a difference between what relationships and fashion mean to me, and because of that, I think they can both co-exist in perfect tandem.

Yes, I love fashion, but the physicality of fashion is only half the story.  Behind every fashion piece is a culmination of passion, talent and dedication.  Behind every design is a designer who has slaved over the drawing board to give life to what initially seemed like an ambitious vision.  In the end, a love for fashion is really a love for people!  It's not just about the shoe, but the designers, the suppliers, the artisans, the models, the retailers, and the salespeople who all work together to make the shoe what it is.  I have a love for luxury fashion not because of the material goods, but because there is a real heart in everything that is done.  Sure, a Rolex would bestow upon me a certain reputation, but that's not really what I see. What I see is the quality of design, of mechanisms, and of materials.

So what's the verdict?  Am I a materialist in denial, or is there something to be said about the difference between a materialist and a fashion lover?

Image Source: Photo1, 2, 3, 4

Isabel Marant for H&M

Tradition continues with a post on H&M's most recent collaboration: Isabel Marant.

H&M went avant garde last year, but this year, they're going just plain cool with Isabel Marant. Isabel Marant is one of those labels that has a very loyal following, thanks to its consistent brand attitude and almost instantly recognizable aesthetic.  Marant designs for the cool girl - the girl with that easy slouch, that lazy saunter, and that nonchalant attitude you just can't ignore.  Her girl is androgynous and edgy, and never leaves the house without skin-tight pants, a loose-fitting tee, and a well-made jacket.

What does Isabel Marant for H&M offer?  A chance to be that girl.  With a collection consisting almost entirely of fitted pants, slouchy tops, and mannish coats, being a cool girl is just a hip jut and shoulder tilt away.  The colour palette revolves around grey, black, white, blue and red, and is accented with staticky prints.

I've always loved Isabel Marant for its model-off-duty ease and a complete dedication to its image.  I believe this H&M collection will be among the most accessible, providing girls and guys with easily adaptable pieces to achieve that Marant effortlessness.  Highlights of the collection for me are the nicely tailored jackets and coats. The thick knit sweaters with mind-tingling prints are also pieces I would consider worthy purchases (men, I'm talking to you).

As for accessories, Marant always completes her looks with a pair of boots or pumps.  In this collection, she gives us wide, slouchy boots.  I wouldn't recommend pairing them with her cropped pants or dresses, but otherwise, they are just what you need to finish off your new cool girl persona.

Image Source: Photo1, 2, 3, 4

Joe Fresh is So Fresh

Today, I was involved in a short discussion of Joe Fresh. It was briefly concluded that Joe Fresh was a "bargain" brand and that its decision to open a flagship store in Manhattan was a "bold" move. I was itching to add to the conversation, but once I start ranting about fashion, things get heated.

Firstly, I don't disagree that Joe Fresh is a so-called "bargain" brand (although I would rather the words "cheap chic" or "affordable").  Joe Fresh regularly has clothing discounted to around $10, and being associated with Loblaws/Superstore, it obviously isn't trying to be a luxury brand.  People are certainly not wrong in considering Joe Fresh a "bargain" brand, since that is a matter of consumer perception, but I would argue there is a distinction between "bargain brand" and "just plain cheap".

While Joe Fresh does have cheaper clothing and does position itself beside cereal isles, its clothing is hardly of low quality.  Comparatively to other bargain brands, Joe Fresh is actually quite impressive (have you seen the atrocities otherwise known as Walmart's George, Hudson's Bay's Jessica Simpson, and Forever 21?). In fact, every season, there are a handful of standout pieces that do cost between $50 to $100+, and are made from fine materials, such as silk, wool and sequins.  I own several Joe Fresh pieces, and I can assure you the quality is better than H&M, and quite possibly even Topshop.  Joe Fresh's designs are always on trend, and like any true fashion label, it has a distinctive brand image - preppy, chic, minimalist, wearable - almost like The Gap's younger, slightly more polished sister.

To move on to a more basic argument: Joe Fresh is a regular at Toronto Fashion Week.  True, having a runway show doesn't necessarily give you fashion cred, but it does say that enough people believe in the quality of your brand to warrant a show.

Finally, Joe Fresh is designed by Joe Mimran, previous head of Club Monaco.  Club Monaco is clearly a quality (and heartbreakingly expensive) brand, and Mimran's core design aesthetic is not lost in the Joe Fresh label.  In addition, Mimran's wife is Kimberley Newport-Mimran, designer of Pink Tartan, one of Canada's top luxury labels.  I mean, Pink Tartan and Club Monaco...Joe Fresh can't possibly be a mere "bargain" brand.

Joe Mimran is a respected designer, and Joe Fresh is a respected label.  "The Joes" revolutionized the way we shop by introducing the idea of being able to buy a quality pencil skirt in the same place you buy your weekly can of beans. This was an interesting look at Joe Fresh's either successful or unsuccessful shaping of consumer perception, but all in all, I don't think it was bold of Joe Fresh to open shop in Manhattan.  Joe Fresh was meant to eventually stake ground on Fifth Avenue.  If you ask me, it belongs on Fifth Avenue.

Image Source: Photo1, Photo2, Photo3, Photo4, Photo5  

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2014 RTW

Recap: For the past couple of seasons, Raf Simons has been hitting the archives and really dissecting the core of Christian Dior - clearly defining each aspect and presenting it in its purest form.  No fuss, no frills, just plain Dior.  This season, Simons doesn't lose touch with quintessential Dior, but begins exploring the edges of what define this historic label.  There were little details that stood out and turned traditional pieces into on-trend must-haves: a button up that buttoned around the body, diagonal pleats on skirts, and racerbacks with straps of uneven thickness.  The unexpectedness of detailing is most strongly displayed in a very traditional bar jacket that packs a punch from behind: flouncing floral pleating all along the back.

Verdict: Finally, a collection I like!  You're all probably tired of hearing me lament about Simons at Dior, and so this is likely a refreshing verdict.  No, this wasn't the perfect collection, but at least I was intrigued by the unique detailing Simons inserted into each look.  Even my conscious attempts at finding an obvious flaw were thwarted.  When the bar jacket came out and I thought, "Simons, I knew you just couldn't help but put one of those in there!", I was rendered speechless (and frankly, impressed) when the model turned around and I was confronted with the floral pleating.  Keep it up, Simons!  Really looking forward to once again feeling that sense of excitement before every Dior collection. 

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2014 RTW

Recap: Despite the shockingly bright colours, there was a cold mechanical feel to Prabal Gurung's Spring/Summer 2014 RTW collection.  Models walked deadpaned with their lips painted as perfectly as a mannequin's.  It was as if the models were robots made to seem more human through their clothing.  They stood in two stiff lines behind a wall of glass, which resembled storefront windows, and slowly emerged one-by-one to parade in front of a group of shoppers.  This stark futurism was futher emphasized by the sharp cuts, severe off-the-shoulders, and bowties that weren't floppy, but rather cut to be as severe as a metal blade.  The (forced) infusion of life came in randomly placed feathers, screen-printed PVC, sheer panels and haphazard embellishment. Whether this collection was a comment on how clothing cannot conceal who we truly are inside, or a critism of the cold-hearted robotism of fashion, or done for just plain fun, Gurung's creativity is what really stands out.

Verdict: I first took notice of Gurung when he showed sheer pants with metallic purple "acid" dripping down the legs for Spring/Summer 2012 (I still want those pants so badly), and since then, I've been keeping an eye on him.  He lags slightly in his Fall/Winter collections, but his Spring/Summer collections are always strong.  There's a uniqueness in his designs that is so distinctly Gurung - bold, abstract patterns, unashamedly bright colours, and stark cuts and lines that work to befuddle the mind.  This season, he once again proves he has promising potential.

Watch the full show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2014 RTW

Recap: At first, it took a while to settle in, but once it did, realization came in floods. The set. Marc Jacobs' set for Louis Vuitton. It was a walk down memory lane!  There was the fountain from Fall/Winter 2010, the elevators from Fall/Winter 2011, the carousel from Spring/Summer 2012, the clock from Fall/Winter 2012, the escalators from Spring/Summer 2013, the hotel doors from Fall/Winter 2013, the print from LV's collaboration with Stephen Sprouse...but wait, it was dark; it was all dark.  This was not a collection of celebration, but a collection of mourning - mourning the departure of one of our most influential designers from one of the world's most influential labels.  The clothes themselves reflected Louis Vuitton's past 16 years with Jacobs: a mix of extravagance, and street fashion.  There were barely-there, sheer bodysuits and baggy, oversized pantsuits; grungy motercycle boots on the bottom and over-the-top ostrich plume headpieces on top; ornate jackets dripping (literally) with jet black crystals and slouchy denim pants rolled at the ankles.  Even before Jacobs walked out for his final bow, the audience was standing in preparation for an ovation.  And as he headed backstage, something happened that I have never before witnessed at a fashion show: the audience stalled for a couple of seconds before getting out of their seats.  Usually audience members are eager to run out to their next show, but this time, the audience lingered, trying to absorb the final, fading moments of Jacobs' overwhelming legacy.

Verdict:  If anything, this was an emotional collection.  It played at your heartstrings.  As each reference to past collections revealed themselves to me, I could feel the tears pushing at the back of my eyes.  The grand scale of the show brought shivers to my arms, and at times, I could do nothing but exhale in exhaustion from the formidable, almost emotionally draining collection.  Farewell, Marc Jacobs.  You will be mourned. 

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2014 RTW

So first I had my ever-ambitious Fashion Week Marathons, where I made comprehensive reviews of collections as they came out. Then I had my Fashion Week recaps, where I briefly commented on my highlights at the end of the season. And now, after admitting defeat, I am going to attempt a hybrid of the two: shorter, but more frequent, reviews of individual collections. Just going with the flow and adapting to my new hectic life schedule. Let's see how this goes, shall we? First up on my marathon list: Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2014 RTW.

Recap: In this high energy fashion presentation, the art of step dancing was brought to life by women from four step dancing sororities, all wearing creations that were hiked and slashed to provide optimal movement - a true departure from Owen's usual draped, somber attire.  But the clothing really didn't mean anything the instant the first group of women walked down the runway.  It was electric.  The scowls set in their face (used to intimidate the competition) radiated strength, and with each movement, power and energy could be felt pulsating through the room.  Each woman had her own personality, and you could see it in her dance; you could feel it in her motion. 

Verdict: This could have easily been the most memorable moment of Fashion Week.  It was a slap in the face - a slap in the face that fashion considers to be ideal and beautiful.  For once, a forceful fashion presentation that actually wasn't about the clothing, but rather the woman, her culture, and her beauty. Round of applause for Rick Owens.

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com