Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012 RTW

Technically, I should be talking about Christian Dior Spring 2012 Couture, but I've wanted to talk about their Spring/Summer 2012 RTW for a long time now, and it would be a great way to build up to my review of the couture show later on.

Remember Dior's fun, but fairly disastrous Fall 2011 Couture show?  In comparison, this collection was infinitely better, but unfortunately, it tried so hard to be the opposite of what the couture show was like that it became lacklustre.  You couldn't say any of the looks were unflattering, but you couldn't say they were outstanding either.  Galliano was a master at producing looks that were undeniably Dior, but which were relevant and new.  Bill Gaytten stayed on the safe side with looks that were all Dior.  As one Youtube user puts it perfectly, it wasn't "not Dior enough" (as the argument usually is), but rather it was too Dior.

The show started off with a silhouette of curved shoulders and a cinched waist - characteristic of Dior's classic Bar jacket - done with a wider neckline than the original.  There was a mix of organza and gazar, with an especially interesting tile/mosaic detailing that I liked, overtop a sheer, masculine collar.  However, you'll see that as pretty as these looks were, they were flat and lacking a certain spark.

As the show progressed, the only burst of colour came in the form of red.  From here on, even though there were still very basic Dior looks, there were more ruffles, bows, and bits of unique detailing.

Once the evening wear started filtering in, I perked up a little.  Gaytten finally started to "get it".  The end consisted of a string of art deco gowns, which I think if he carried from start to finish, would have given him a more successful collection.  Not perfect, but better.

Another thing I noticed was the choice of soundtrack.  Galliano always had magnificent soundtracks that transported the audience into a world of theatricality and indulgence.  The soundtrack this season was too fast and upbeat for the clothes that were being displayed, and maybe it was just me, but even Karlie Kloss seemed to walk faster and ditch her slow saunter.  Hardly any of the models did any of the acting they usually do for Dior.  There was no feeling of adventure.  Just a straightforward look at the Dior archives.

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com