Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 Couture

In case you didn't know, there was a big news story in fashion last month.  On January 12, John Galliano made a triumphant return to fashion.

I remember when he was disgraced from Christian Dior back in 2011 for anti-Semitic remarks. In fact, I wrote a response to his firing on the same day I learned of the news - which was, in hindsight, not the best idea. You may be able to tell in the post my immediate opinion was clouded by emotion and was, as a result, irrational. After my shock and anger settled (and thanks to all the wonderful comments that gave me a reality check), I realized I was too rash in admonishing Dior for letting Galliano go. I was looking at things from a fashion perspective, which was quite foolish considering there was a much larger social issue at hand.  "If Dior is firm on their position to keep Galliano out, then I worry for the future of the house,"...really, 2011-self?  Of course Galliano had to be let go from Dior; no other decision would have been appropriate. And in no way would such a historic, storied house like Dior crumble because of the absence of one man, albeit an ingeniously creative one.

But here we are, three years later. I've admitted my mistakes, and so has Galliano. What now? After a stint behind-the-scenes at Oscar de la Renta, Galliano made the stunning announcement he would be taking the post of Creative Director at Maison Martin Margiela. What made this so much more shocking than any other new-Creative-Director announcement was that it was for Margiela. Since 2009, Margiela has remained a secretive entity. Its design team is nameless and faceless. Anonymity is Margiela's brand, and anonymity is what makes the design house so unique. Now, all of a sudden, the mystique was to be broken. Galliano's announcement was a very bittersweet moment. On one hand, I was ecstatic Galliano's talent would once again be gifted to us, but disappointed Margiela would cease to remain distinctively abstract and elusive. I cherished the idea of a such a private organization existing in our modern world of celebrity and publicity.

Nonetheless, when Galliano's first collection for the label came out, I practically had to distance myself from it in order to fully appreciate it. I needed time to process the gravity of the moment. Luckily, the patience was well worth it.



This is a beautiful collection both in itself and in the milestone it represents for Galliano. There was magnificently intricate play on volume, deconstruction, texture and 3D depth, along with a penchant for the grotesque that is characteristic of the maison. My friend quite cleverly described the collection as an interplay between work-in-progress and finished product. The main collection consisted of tan, black, and red creations, but the final procession was a bleached, white-washed version of the previously shown garments. Which set is the final product?  That's up to you to decide.

Yet what was most beautiful was how the signature Galliano extravagance found its way into the mix. Having been deprived of his romanticism for so long, this collection was among the most satisfying of experiences. I was also pleasantly surprised to see his ability to exercise a level of restraint; some of the final dresses were so sleek and seamless the models' bodies became blood-red columns.

Lastly, can we all just please savour the moment when Galliano steps out - incredibly sleek and debonair in a white lab coat, tie and slick hair - for a modest bow? This used to be the man who would make the final bow a show in itself. Margiela is truly a new chapter for Galliano, and this collection will forever mark the return of one of fashion's greatest talents. With a big sigh of relief and barely contained excitement, the words on everyone's lips were, "He's back!"

Image Source: ChicVersion

What a CutiePie

So today, I just wanted to give a life update.  In Ms. Role Model, I blogged about how difficult it was for me to find women in media to look up to, but that I managed to find a role model in Ashley Perez, video producer at Buzzfeed. Who would have thought that 2 months later, I'd find another female personality to admire! I would like to share more about her in hopes I can help you along the way of finding your own idol. I still strive to have the confidence that Ashley so wonderfully encapsulates, but my new heroine is someone I find to be relatable. She is Marzia Bisognin (alias CutiePieMarzia), an Italian YouTuber.

I first discovered Marzia through her boyfriend Felix Kjellberg (alias PewDiePie), the most subscribed user on YouTube (sidenote: even though I'm definitely not a gamer, I think he's a fantastic comedic personality and he is among my favourite YouTubers). Admittedly, when I first saw her, I had immediately brushed her off as "just another pretty face". There are already too many gorgeous girls on the Internet whose main purpose is to look good in front of the camera, and I thought Marzia would be one of them. However, the more I saw of her in PewDiePie's videos, the more I realized I had perhaps wrongfully labelled her. My skepticism about her finally dissolved when I decided to watch this video where she does a Q&A. This became the exact moment I shed my icy, doubtful façade and began to adore her genuine character.

To state the obvious, Marzia is stunningly beautiful. But what makes her so refreshing is that she is open about the fact she is incredibly shy and socially awkward. She talks about having always been made fun of in school for being too skinny, and that she struggled to learn how to love her body. You can sometimes see her social anxiety come through in videos where she meets new people or does something she's not comfortable with, and in many ways, it's like watching myself. In terms of being shy and quiet, Marzia and I share the same story.

What I love most about her is that she doesn't want you to think she's perfect. She's not the kind of girl who primps her hair on camera and constantly checks her reflection to make sure she looks flawless in each frame. In fact, Marzia's not afraid to pull a face, be a little weird, or play along with a joke. She's posted photos of herself without makeup, addressed the fact people think she has "bushy" eyebrows (seriously, if her eyebrows are bushy, then mine are forests) and too-high a voice, and has not kept it a secret that her enviable wavy hair is actually the product of hair extensions - her natural hair is apparently very flat (and I can definitely relate to that). All in all, she's down to earth. She's been frank about how she struggled with finances early on, tried endlessly to find a job with minimal English skills, and essentially worked hard to make enough money for food and her half of the rent. She doesn't drink, smoke or swear, and that's a breath of fresh air in our modern culture.

And as if personality wasn't enough, I also quite like her sense of style. We both adore feminine, pretty pieces, and I love that she has her own unique take on fashion and isn't wearing something simply because it's the latest trend. I think because we are both shy people, fashion becomes the medium through which we take risks and exercise self-expression. I also notice that she tends to wear tights underneath dresses, prefers one-piece swimsuits, and is smart enough to wear comfortable flats for daily activities. Edit: Marzia now knows I admire her fashion sense after I commented on her blog! She has mentioned she doesn't use any hair products except for a quick spritz of hairspray on her bangs, and prefers to tie her hair up in a bun instead of using heat to achieve waves. Overall, she has a kind of modesty and realness that I admire.

So there you have it.  I just wanted to share with you someone I admire, and want you to know that the best people out there are those who aren't perfect. To all those who insist on perfection, little do they know imperfections are the very things that make us beautiful.

PS: Relationship goals = Marzia and Felix. They have such a romantic love story and are definitely the power couple of YouTube.

Image Source: Twitter, Instagram, Chictopia

Fashion Blogs are Dying

Fashion blogs are dying.  Take it from the girl who writes one.

Just as there are now famous personalities on YouTube, Instagram and Vine, there were once famous fashion bloggers. There still are - but they are no longer what they used to be. Blogging was at its peak in 2011 and 2012, right when I decided to join the community. Fashion blogs were a dime a dozen, but everyone had dreams of becoming the next Sartorialist, Style Rookie or Cupcakes & Cashmere. We watched bloggers sit front row beside industry elite, and we all secretly wondered whether an influential fashion insider would chance upon our blog and "discover" us. We spent hours commenting on other fashion blogs, blithely leaving our URLs at the bottom of each comment, desperately trying to drive traffic to our sites with "follow for a follow" promises (although between you and me, I hated playing that game and I never actually followed anyone).

But as much as fashion blogging was sometimes a shallow system, there was a community. I still remember the people whose blogs I would visit everyday, and who would visit mine in return. I remember how we marvelled at our surprisingly similar personalities and opinions, gifted each other with blogging awards, and of course, bonded over our passion for fashion. It was this community that I owed my thanks to for the initial growth and visibility of my blog.

However, the tides changed in the world of social media when platforms such as Twitter, Tumblr, and YouTube showed us the power of having fewer words and more visuals. New talent was being discovered on these platforms, and blogs were suddenly the old mom trying to be hip and cool. Blogging became increasingly self-centered (I remember coming across blogs where people simply posted 10 different full sized photos of themselves in the same outfit), and if you were just going to post photos of OOTDs with two or three lines of text, then you may as well have done it on a site that was actually made for that, such as Instagram. Blogging stopped trending, we lost interest, and we moved on. Tavi Gevinson saw the impending shift and knew when to move beyond the blog and into other creative outlets. Any fashion blogger would be lying if they said they still have the same community they once did in their comments section. I recall the days of scrolling through The Sartorialist's hundreds of comments. Nowadays, The Sartorialist clocks in at less than 50 comments per post.  The Sartorialist, people.  At one point probably the most popular of fashion blogs. Even I've seen a noticeable impact on my blog.  In case you were wondering, I'm very much aware I basically have zero comments per post. One if I'm lucky. Two years ago, I received an average of 20-40.

To be fair, the community still exists, but not on the blog itself. The community is now on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram, so if you want to continue staying relevant, you better be on there too.

Feeling nostalgic, I decided to revisit some of the bloggers I used to know.  Many have stopped blogging, some have deleted their sites, and only a handful remain active. The obvious question is, why am I still here?  And the answer is simple: I love fashion blogging. I imagine some bloggers joined the community hoping to chase fame, while others just as a passing hobby, but I joined as a form of self-expression. I did hope to connect with like-minded individuals, but I've gotten more than I could've ever asked for from this blog: a group of wonderfully supportive friends, an internship, a job, and most importantly of all, happiness. I truly see myself blogging until a ripe old age; no one will care about what I have to say at that point, but that's perfectly fine with me. That's not why I started blogging anyway.

Image Source: Photo1, 2

And...Action!

So I tried something new this year: videography! When my YouTuber friend, More Merrick, asked if I would be interested in shooting some footage for his latest fashion video, I was hesitant. I had absolutely zero film experience and never considered myself all that competent with a camera. But eager to learn new skills and explore other creative avenues, I agreed.

We shot two outfits over the span of two hours, but let me tell you, that time flew by! Even though the first outfit was done outside in below-zero weather, I was so preoccupied with getting a good shot I barely noticed the chill. Despite my lack of videography experience, I went in trusting my instincts. I drew on my years of exposure to fashion photography and the fact I occasionally snap photos for my blog's Facebook page to help me envision how a subject should be placed within a frame. I've always had a vividly imaginative mind, but have never been able to translate my fantastical visions into any other medium besides words. Figuring out how to manifest the sparkling images in my mind into actual video footage would be my greatest challenge. Yet even if all else failed, I knew I could at least depend on my love for fashion to capture the clothing in its best light.

Check out what became of my first-time efforts in the finished video below (I shot the first and fourth outfits):

Huge thanks to Merrick for working his editing magic to hide the flaws in my footage!  I always knew filming was a task that required considerable skill, and that day of shooting did not prove me wrong. I struggled most with getting smooth shots and ensuring the camera was always in focus. Although my myriad of flaws do not escape me while watching the finished product, I had so much fun that day I come away more inspired than discouraged.

Lately, I've found myself expanding beyond fashion and learning to appreciate other forms of art. It has only been in recent years that I have begun to really love the art of film-making and acting (so much so I even considered writing film reviews at one point). I've also gained a newfound enjoyment of visual art, theatre, orchestra, and dance. At first I felt as if I were betraying my fashion roots by electing to watch a movie over the latest runway show, but then I realized I was simply complementing my deep appreciation for talent and skill. At the heart of it all, no matter what form it takes, I adore seeing people who are good at - and passionate about - what they do. Don't worry; fashion will always be my first (and forever) love.  But with this new mindset, I see my fun little venture into videography as a natural extension of my passion for fashion and creativity. Just like the effect of putting on a fantastic outfit, everytime I yelled "action!", I was transported to a heightened reality away from the drudgery of my surroundings. In those couple of seconds the camera was on, my world existed within the frame - and there was something satisfying about that.

Nevertheless, my videography skills still need a lot of work. I've made a number of mental notes for next time I film. There's a next time, you ask? Stay tuned...

Image Source: Ask

Backyard Luxury

I first encountered Nordstrom during my trip to Seattle. The retail giant awed me with its extensive handbag and shoe section (almost an entire floor!), and so when it was announced Nordstrom would be staking ground in my own city, I had been eagerly awaiting its arrival for months. When it at last opened its doors in September, I had despairingly just left to begin another year at university.  After being taunted with photos of the grand opening, and consequently wistfully scrolling through its official Facebook page every day, I finally had the chance to walk under Nordstrom's gleaming silver storefront during my holiday break.

My consensus: impressed! The Nordstrom here was even better than the one in Seattle. Nordstrom is known for its combination of high and low, and in Seattle, that was glaringly apparent - right outside the walls of Chanel's grand boutique were racks of tween clothing starting at $10. A bit disorientating, if you ask me. Here, the prices ranged from mid to high, lessening the shock of disparate products. The store was also organized in such a way that the different sections were neatly divided, but flowed smoothly into one another. An overall enjoyable experience; happy to welcome Nordstrom to my city!

As a general comment, Nordstrom provides a fairly unique shopping experience. Because of its mix of mid and high, Nordstrom provides an opportunity for average shoppers to interact with luxury goods in a laid-back, comfortable environment. Retailers like Holt Renfrew uphold an elite atmosphere in order to stay consistent with its products, but Nordstrom is a more approachable retailer for shoppers (like me) who adore luxury, but may be intimidated by the colder, starker image of high-end stores. I'm a little torn on whether I enjoy such a shopping experience. On one hand, I do feel comforted by the more relaxed approach, yet feel as if the magic is lost when luxury products aren't given the treatment they deserve. I guess in the end, it will depend on your mood.

Lastly, highlights of my visit included seeing Valentino's Rockstud Ankle Boots, which I had first come across online.  My dad and I both zeroed in on the boots (him the pebbled black leather, me the smooth bordeaux leather), and with fire in my eyes, I wanted to announce to the entire store I was finally holding the glorious shoes in my hands (a saleswoman gave me a knowing smile as she heard me gasp). Nordstrom also had an impressive selection of sunglasses, including a pair of gold frame aviators from Marc by Marc Jacobs.  As my dad said, "If you can't find a pair of sunglasses here, then you're really out of luck!"  Lastly, in terms of clothing, I found colourfully striped beachwear by Missoni, which included long maxi dresses and one-piece swimsuits (or more accurately, suits for lounging in the sun because no way is water getting near that wonderful creation). At the end of my trip, I walked out under Nordstrom's gleaming silver storefront, ready to go back any time and do it all over again.

Image Source: BlueBesos, MTLurb, Jill Belland

A Word of Recommendation

Every summer, I try to set a goal for myself. One year it was to catch up with as many old friends and classmates as possible. Another year it was to start exploring the surprisingly vast number of cultural/artistic events my growing city had to offer. Just this past summer, in addition to continuing my artistic escapades, I had another goal of learning more about fashion through mediums besides my usual magazines and online websites. As a result, I found myself borrowing a good number of fashion books and documentaries over the course of four months. Now I'm here to talk about each of them, and hopefully inspire you to pick up a copy one day and begin your own journey.

Books

The Sartorialist: Closer. I absolutely loved the first The Sartorialist, and so I was very excited to finally have my hands on the second one. In the first book, what stood out to me was photographer Scott Schuman's commentary. In The Sartorialist: Closer, I was struck by the way Schuman put his photographs together. Photos were placed beside each other such that the spine acted as both a way to bring people together, and to divide their personalities. On one page was a woman in an all-white dress, and right beside her was a woman in an all-black dress. They were polar opposites, yet somehow they were complementary. And as the book went on, more and more of these fascinating pairings were made.

Advanced Style. I've always struggled with how I would dress in my most advanced years. Fashion tends to avoid that question; Vogue has its annual age issue, but in reality, their idea of old age is 60-years-old. It's like any woman older than 60 doesn't have much hope left in terms of fashion. I want someone to tell me I can live to a ripe old age and still have fun with fashion. Thankfully, Ari Seth Cohen does just that. He celebrates aging and shows that it doesn't have to filled with baggy t-shirts, khakis and sneakers.

Valentino: Themes and Variations. I love Valentino, but because he retired right when I started getting into fashion, I sadly never really had the chance to witness his prolific career. This coffee table book is my attempt at grasping as much Valentino history as I can. Flipping through the pages, I realized that although the modern Valentino brand borrows wonderfully from its past, it still misses the mark in terms of capturing Valentino's magical touch. But perhaps that's exactly how things are meant to be - it's a testament to the designer's inimitable hand and unrivaled talent. 

The Asylum. This is a riot of a book. Simon Doonan has a wicked sense of humour, and gives a hilarious look at the mad, mad world of fashion. But burrowed among the sly remarks and quick-tongued writing are gems of wisdom. Doonan really gets at how fashion people think and gives honest criticisms on the industry. Yet as broken, superficial, and crazy as the fashion industry can be, we still look at it with tender love. I guess that makes us just a little insane?

Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping. Two words: read it. You don't even have to be a fashion fanatic in order to read this. This book is a gold mine for both consumers and retailers.  Paco Underhill makes a living off watching people shop, and has a wealth of information on the science behind shopping. From looking at the ideal layout of retail stores, to how human physiology impacts the way we shop, Why We Buy lets you peek inside the secrets of retail. 

Buy-ology: Truth and Lies About Why We Buy. I picked up this book thinking it would be similar to Why We Buy, but I finished the book fairly underwhelmed. Martin Lindstrom studies marketing through the lens of neuroscience, which in essence, is quite interesting. But the book didn't manage to distill the science into a format the average reader would find approachable, and therefore I found myself skimming several parts. And ultimately, the results Lindstrom gathers are not entirely noteworthy. Lindstrom appears to take already commonly accepted ideas, and simply further supports them through science. Nothing groundbreaking coming from this book.

The WORN Archive. The WORN Fashion Journal, a Canadian fashion magazine that aims to be, well, unlike your typical fashion magazine, has put together a book that wonderfully captures what the magazine is all about. Typical glossy fashion magazines put forth an idealized lifestyle, but The WORN Archive approaches fashion from a raw and real perspective. Fashion issues, ideas and histories are explored in ways the average fashion lover can relate to, and photoshoots feature models that look just like you and me. In some ways, this book is for true connoisseurs who aren't attracted to fashion simply because it looks nice. I'm not saying this book is better than the glossy mags I also adore, but that it acts as the perfect counterpart for those looking to get the full picture.

Humans of New York. Now, this isn't necessarily a fashion book, but when you aim to photograph humans in all their unique glory, you inadvertently (or perhaps deliberately) end up photographing fashion. Brandon Stanton, like Scott Schuman, does a fantastic job of creating themes around the photos he places together. One page might have me smiling like a goof; the next, tearing up in sadness; and the last, intrigued at all the zany, adorable, admirable characters that make up what we know as New York.

Documentaries

Valentino: The Last Emperor. Finally, finally I had this documentary in my hands. It was fascinating to witness Valentino's brilliant mind (and at times, his quick retorts) at work, and it was humbling to learn that behind every lauded designer is an extremely hardworking and supportive group of seamstresses and loved ones. Between scenes of the jaw-droppingly opulent life Valentino lived, there are precious, tender moments between the emperor and Giancarlo Giammetti, his partner in both business and life.

Lagerfeld Confidential. I went into this documentary giddy with excitement at being able to tap into the mind of one of fashion's greatest characters: Karl Lagerfeld. I'm intrigued by how Lagerfeld is such a prolific man, yet strangely, still remains such an enigma to so many of us. But around half an hour in, I realized this documentary would not satisfy my intrigue. Instead of taking a meaningful look at what makes this man tick, director Rudolphe Marconi seemed more interested in giggling like a pubescent boy as he urged Lagerfeld to divulge in his sex life. Although Lagerfeld's mystique has been shattered a little by this documentary (never meet your idols, as they say), Lagerfeld's good-hearted jabs at Marconi prove he's well above the petty school-boy humour of this film.

Scatter my Ashes at Bergdorf's. The trailer of this documentary had given me shivers, so I knew I was in for a visual delight with Scatter my Ashes at Bergdorf's. I was riveted by the stories this historic department store held within its lush interiors, and was - at least for the duration of the film - invited to roam the realm of the elite. Although word of warning: my parents practically fell asleep watching this, so proceed only if you're a diehard fashion lover.

Image Source: Pinterest, Gilt, Rodrigo,WORN, Fashion School Daily, IMDB, MyTrendySins,  

Age of Beauty

I always come across articles in fashion magazines where writers marvel at their mothers' personal style, recounting stories of how, as a child, they would rummage through their mothers' priceless furs and silks. Reading these articles, I always wished I had such stories to tell. But just yesterday, I realized I didn't have such stories not because my mother wasn't fashionable, but simply because she never showed me photos of her younger self.

In a bout of nostalgia, my mom decided to show me photos of herself from her youth. What I saw was a vibrant, beautiful young woman who had a soft spot for dressing up. Carefree maxi dresses, slouchy sweaters with colourful belts, ladylike shoes, or edgy rolled up jeans and scuffed up Keds, all topped off with a sleek bob, feline eyes (even without eye makeup!) and a bold red lip. I saw a woman who, just like me, went through an early awkward phase - big hair, large round glasses, and an insecure smile - but who grew into someone who was confident in both her brains and beauty. I found myself in the strange position of confronting my mother as a woman of my own age, and it dawned on me she too had her own dreams and ambitions, some of which were dashed, some of which came true.

Looking through her old photos, my mother got misty eyed, repeating to herself over and over how beautiful she used to be. My heart shattered because she never says that about herself now. Whenever she looks in the mirror, she is only ever wistful for her old body.

Coincidentally, just a day or two earlier, my friend had sent me a video called Sidewalk by Celia Bullwinkel. The video chronicles a woman who confronts her body as it changes with each chapter of her life. As for me, I'm still in that precarious stage where I'm learning to love who I am, but still hold certain insecurities, Like the woman in the video, there's a weird balance between beginning to have pride in who you are, and still feeling that urge to just hide from it all. But this video, along with seeing my mother's own transformation, helped me realize that our body is just what we operate in. To my mother, I want her to know she still is beautiful - beauty is not something you lose with age, but something you hold within. When I grow old and wrinkly, when my hair thins and my body becomes saggy and pear-shaped, I hope I will not look back with longing and think I was more beautiful when I was younger, but rather look back and know that the life I lived was, above all else, strikingly beautiful.

Image Source: Belelu