I'm a Millennial, And Gen Z is Making Me Feel Old

“According to TikTok, skinny jeans are uncool.” I scoff as I ‘x’ out of the article and make a show of reaffirming my pledge of allegiance to skinny jeans. Years ago, I declared the body-hugging fit to be the most flattering style for my body type and I am not going to let some random Gen Zs pontificating on TikTok convince me otherwise. 

Fast forward two weeks and I’m standing in front of the mirror in a cream turtleneck, an apple green oversized linen blazer…and pair of black straight leg trousers rolled up at the ankles. “Honestly, I’m kind of living for this,” I muse as I arrange my limbs into theatrical Instagram poses. And that’s when I realize, skinny jeans are uncool (sorry, fellow Millennials). 

Since learning of Gen Z’s disdain for the skinny fit, I started to notice that everyone who wears skinny jeans are indeed around my age or older. I knew cuts like straight leg, boot cut, wide leg and even *gasp* flared bottoms were in style, but I truly did not expect skinny jeans to ever be considered outdated. And yet, there I was, suddenly seeing skinnies as boring, basic and safe (and being safe in fashion can often lead to blandness). There is something about the way '90s-inspired jeans are “unflattering” that is so decidedly cool. I’m witnessing all these young girls wearing pants that look exactly like the kind of loose pants I would have been (and was) ridiculed for wearing as a kid. But now it’s trendy to wear what used to be shapeless and to go against the laws of attraction by indulging in our attitude of indifference, letting our casual comfort fly in the face of what is conventionally seen as “hot”—which in turn makes it totally hot. 

And so my outfits as of late have involved baggier bottoms. My straight leg trousers and mom jeans have gained more mileage, and I have even gone out in joggers and sweatpants (my goodness, now those are things I really never thought I would wear outside of the house) styled with denim jackets, glammed up with a stack of silver jewellery, or worn tongue-in-cheek with a matching hoodie for a monochrome tracksuit look. 

I haven’t gone full-fledged Gen Z though. I have not ventured into the world of teeny tiny tops (eg. cropped shirts, tube tops, short cardigans buttoned only at the bust) because—let’s be real—I don’t have a Gen Z stomach. I did try experimenting with a pair of white flared jeans, yet upon seeing the dirt swept up along the bottom of my pant legs after a walk outside, I was reminded of one of the reasons why I gave up flares many years ago. 

But all this experimentation led me to a crushing thought—was I making a fool out of myself by wearing trends meant for those 10 years younger than me? And thus, an early-life crisis ensued: I feared I was becoming a cringey old person desperately trying to stay relevant. Was I going to find myself as one of those people who refuse to dress “age appropriately” and are found shopping alongside their daughters and/or bouncy teenagers in a store pumping out boppy pop hits from the speakers? After discussing with my friends, it became clear I was the only one who had jumped on the wagon away from skinny jeans. 

I find myself at a weird time in life: the stage when one first realizes they are not young anymore. I’m at the age where I don’t understand the younger generation (90% of TikTok content makes me wish I could go back and salvage the few seconds of time I just lost...the 10% that don't include @yoleendadong and the BTS TikToks a very important person in my life—love you!—sends to me nearly daily), and where wrinkles, grey hair and sluggish metabolism are newfound topics of conversation. I’m no longer the generation that sets trends, but rather the one that finds out about them one beat too late.  

And yet a desire to stay youthful never factored into my straight leg endeavours—trying to stay relevant is not the reason I follow trends. Ironically, this goes back to a comment I made over 10 years ago. I’ll let my younger (albeit less articulate) self say it: “I love trying out new things when it comes to dressing up. That’s why I love trends so much. Trends are not all about wearing the latest and the greatest, but rather trends are a way for us to experiment with different styles and to explore the innovations of dressing up.” This statement still rings true today. I love discovering new ways of styling the items in my closet. Not a single year goes by where I don't manage to pull together new outfits and change up my personal style. I’m always on the lookout for not only new ways to express myself, but new parts of myself to express. Trends are my guide in this journey. 

So am I trying to compensate for being past my prime? Am I simply grappling onto my final vestiges of youth? I don’t think so, but people are welcome to think otherwise—it wouldn’t matter much to me. One benefit of age is finally knowing it’s not worth spending time or energy on people who don’t support or enrich you, much less care what they think of you. I will continue wearing what makes me happy, whatever the heck that may be. Besides, another benefit of age is knowing that trends cycle. Eventually, skinny jeans will be back in style—and when that time comes, Gen Z, you ready? 

Image Source: WhoWhatWear, Cecilia Jordyn, Etsy, Pinterest

The Impact of COVID-19 on Fashion

I have felt oddly obligated (in a unique way only those involved in fashion, writing and business can feel) to publish a post with insightful and analytical commentary about the impact of COVID-19 on the fashion industry. But then again, there are a plethora of articles written by individuals far more qualified than I available for your perusal on the Internet. I’ll leave the serious business inquiry to those among the likes of BoF, BNN and HBR, and stick with my schtick—which is the view of things through the eyes of an average fashion lover. We may not all be businesspeople or creative directors, but we are all consumers. And at the end of the day, it is the experience of the consumer that matters. So here are my observations:

Masks as Fashion: Functionality’s Makeover

At first, they were rare. They flew off the shelves along with toilet paper, and for a brief period, we were using anything we could find around the house—scarves, pot lids, menstrual pads—as makeshift alternatives. Now, they’re in oversupply. You can scarcely find a retailer who doesn’t sell them, and mostly everyone has a proper version of it in any colour, pattern and design their heart desires. I am, of course, talking about masks.  

Although already a commonplace accessory in countries like Japan, South Korea and China, North American culture has been uncomfortable with the notion of hiding one’s face day-to-day. Yet when push came to shove, we all adopted the practice. And when something functional becomes necessary, we have a tendency to try and make it look good (see: stylish scrubs and designer PPE for airline cabin crews). The introduction of face masks has opened a whole new realm of fashion. In the same way we analyze what clothing is most flattering on certain body types, I found myself fascinated by what makes face masks suitable for our own face shapes (fit and cutting), what designs look best both up close and from a distance (white masks with floral patterns look a bit like diapers, don’t you think?) and the innovative ways we can make masks fun (luxe lanyards and mask jewellery). Will masks stick around after COVID-19 passes? Probably not. But I hope they remain as an option for those who wish to complement their outfits with a new accessory.  

Digital Drudgery: A Reminder of Why We Gather

The start of COVID-19 led to a flurry of speculation about what the future of fashion would look like. The industry started questioning why everyone wastes resources by travelling so much to attend runway shows, meetings or events when we’ve now proven all of that can be done virtually. From live-streamed performances, to digital audiences, to miniature couture and marionette shows, designers tried their best to convey the magic of fashion—which is so sensorial and physical—through a screen. For a moment, it seemed the interweb advocates were winning. And yet, according to Business of Fashion, the virtual Fashion Weeks over the summer saw reduced online impressions and up to 55% less social media engagement compared to last year, and it’s undeniable people are feeling consumed by wanderlust. 

That brings us to the question of why we gather in the first place. Humans are social creatures, and there is no way virtual viewings will satiate us forever. We gather because we can gain a sense of closeness, community and camaraderie with those we share an experience with. Fashion shows will come back. Travel will return. In-person meetings will still be valued. COVID-19 is a turning point, but it would be a mistake to think of it as a turning point away from everything we have found so fundamentally enriching.

Slowing Down Fast Fashion

Even back when I was an eager newbie to fashion, I struggled to keep up with its frantic pace. If there is one thing I would like to see this pandemic bring about in the industry, it is a more thoughtful approach to what and how we produce. As COVID-19 forced us to catch our breath, we realized our never-ending thirst for newness had worn us out. We looked at all the unsold merchandise hanging in retail stores every season—the several million tons of textile waste we produce annually—and asked ourselves, why? Fashion can nourish our souls, but at what point does it become reckless and wasteful to not encourage better forms of production and longer-lasting apparel? 

Brands can push out up to eight collections a year; in addition to two seasonal ready-to-wear collections across womenswear and menswear, the traditional industry calendar also includes pre-fall, resort and seasonal haute couture. Are pre-season collections really that different from seasonal collections? Does menswear and womenswear really need to be distinguished? New for the sake of new is not creativity. Some designers have already made adjustments to present collections in the season they’re actually designed for (instead of 6 months before), and Gucci is cutting its five shows a year down to two. As we emerge post-COVID-19, I would be happy to see the industry adopt a slower and more sustainable pace. 

The Brick & Mortar Website

Online shopping has shown itself to be extremely handy. Established businesses that didn’t have a robust e-commerce service in place prior to the pandemic were clearly already falling behind the times. So you may be surprised to learn that despite how unparalleled the accessibility and variety of goods online are, Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company jointly report that more than 80% of transactions in the fashion industry still happen in brick-and-mortar stores. The industry is actually largely dependent on physical retail—and I believe there is a reason for that. 

Fashion is meant to be a 3-D experience. When it comes to clothing, I don’t trust any image online until I see the item in real life. Only in person are you able to verify the colour and design, feel the quality of the fabric, see how the cutting hangs and moves on your body, and scrutinize the item from every angle (including inside and/or underneath, which are not often shown online). And, most importantly, you can judge how a piece makes you feel once you have it on. You might have a positive emotional response when you see an image of a piece online, but that response is a weak predictor of whether you will actually feel confident once you put the piece on. For these reasons, online shopping is an injustice to what the fashion experience is truly meant to be. 

However, I’m not woebegone over the “good ol’ days.” I refuse to purchase clothing online (unless I’ve already tried it on in store), but I am aware of the limited selection available with physical shopping. I think we are facing a great opportunity for businesses to merge digital and physical shopping by establishing both an online presence and a lower-cost physical presence through “try-on” boutiques. Retailers need only maintain all sizes of each item at bare minimum quantities for customers to try on before they make the purchase online at self-service computer terminals in the boutique. I also hope this lower-cost option might encourage online-only brands to set up a physical presence, thus introducing more variety to the retail space and allowing those businesses to expand their customer base. Brick-and-mortar shopping is not dead; it just needs to be reborn. 

Don’t Sweat It—For Now

With nearly 40% of the Canadian labour force working from home since the pandemic, as per Statistics Canada, the way we dress on a daily basis has changed. There is simply no reason to don our office attire anymore. I’ve been in my house clothes looking like a schlep for a good 90% of my existence lately. And I’m not alone—loungewear sales are up, with sweatsuits, yoga pants and slippers becoming 2020’s most coveted items. Entireworld, a line of wardrobe basics similar to American Apparel or Uniqlo, saw its colourful sweatsuits fly off the shelves, landing the brand its highest grossing months since it was conceived by Scott Sternberg, former founder of Band of Outsiders, in 2018. On the flip side, Le Château recently announced its bankruptcy, citing the dwindling need for party dresses as a contributing factor (I’ve waited patiently for this brand to be defunct anyway, but that’s a rant for another time). 

Does this signal changing tides in the way we dress? I doubt it. Fashion is fickle that way. Sooner or later, we will yearn for a chance to dress up again. Why else would The Strawberry Dress, a frothy tulle confection embellished with sequined strawberries designed by Lirika Matoshi, have become a viral sensation despite having practically nowhere to wear it? Dressing in sweats all the time doesn’t do wonders for my mental health, and I’m sure others would agree. A global initiative called “End PJ Paralysis” encourages hospital patients to get up, get dressed in their own clothes and move around to aid in quicker recovery and overall patient experience. I’m glad for the acknowledgement that fashion can play a role in emotional health, and post-COVID-19, I expect we will have newfound pleasure in the act of dressing again. One day, we’ll be grateful for the freedom to do the things we once took for granted before we realized how precious they were. So don’t sweat it—one day, things will return to normal. 

Image Source: Forbes, The Guardian, RETHINK Retail, My Domaine, Day in My Dreams   

I Like That

K-pop is having a growing influence on the international music scene, but despite going crazy for BTS, I haven’t found myself interested in other K-pop groups. I am, however, aware that BLACKPINK has risen to the top among girl groups, and while it took some time to warm up to, I did jam briefly to “Sour Candy”, their song with Lady Gaga in her latest Chromatica album. So when I saw BLACKPINK made a comeback with their pre-release song, “How You Like That”, I decided to check it out.

And my goodness, that song is tight.

I am far from being a Blink, but “How You Like That” has been on repeat lately. And it seems I’m not the only one: the music video for “How You Like That” scored the biggest premiere in YouTube history with a record-breaking 86.3 million views in the first 24 hours. I found the styling overall impressively punctuated the song and dance; nevertheless, there were a few parts where it could have been refined to give more punch. Let’s break it down.

0:07 – Lisa gives grandeur to the opening in a black sequined gown from Celine Fall/Winter 2020 RTW, strutting down the stairway to deliver the signature line, “BLACKPINK in your area.”

0:13 – Jennie in an aquatic dream scene with a jewelled teardrop, AREA crystal headpiece and Bell & Nouveau embellished cape to leave her smooth vocals dripping with glamour. I also love how the crystal strands in her ponytail accentuate her blonde bangs, a trend I learned of through YouTuber Edvasian’s latest hairstyle video and a trend which Jennie is absolutely slaying.

0:20 – Jisoo tugging a floral embellished, chiffon blindfold from her doe eyes. The aesthetic…need I say more?

0:58 – Lisa in an embroidered Celine bolero, Stussy bralette, unforgiving manicure and gold tooth, serving up ‘boss b*tch’ attitude to retort, “Look at you / now look at me / look at you / now look at me.”

1:12 – Lisa alternating between a heavily embellished Dolce & Gabbana bustier crop top accompanied by a cascading Bell & Nouveau waterfall necklace, and a straight-off-the-runway asymmetrical ensemble from Off-White Fall/Winter 2020 RTW, looking like an Egyptian empress with swagger in spades. “What’s up, I’m right back / 방아쇠를 (trigger) cock back,” hits the spot with precision.

1:27 – Jennie’s cherry red bodysuit with a crystal chain slip dress has potential, although it falls short for me because it would have more dramatic elegance in a longer length. I want to like it, but as it stands, it resembles too much an elevated child’s dance costume. The jewelled eyepiece, on the other hand, is perfect. It reminds me of the humorously offbeat accessories in Schiaparelli Fall 2019 Couture, and when she tosses her head back at 2:08, the swing of the strands heightens the act. “그 미소를 띠며 (With a smile on my face) I’ll kiss you goodbye.” Powerful.

1:35 – On its own, this pointelle lace dress on Jisoo from Alexander McQueen Resort 2020 looks like a presentable prêt-à-porter runway piece (Alexander McQueen has been killing it lately), but for a music video, it lacks lustre. This is the kind of dress suited for the red carpet or worn by fashion editors to the front row, not as a theatrical showpiece for a K-pop music video.

1:40 – Nothing particularly exceptional about these looks, besides that Jennie’s chest pops and Lisa’s body rolls are given the chance to shine in the abbreviated tops.

2:12 – Unfortunately, from here on, I think the music video loses its steam. Rosé looks like a mother-of-the-bride in a feathery dress that is simply trying too hard to fit the avian theme when she lifts her arms to declare, “그때쯤에 넌 날 끝내야 했어 (You should’ve ended me when you had the chance).” I also don’t understand why this series of black evening gowns barely make an appearance in the video. The most consistent screen time they get is for a few seconds at the beginning in dim lighting, and yet, the dresses are also so underwhelming they should have been chopped out entirely. The empire waist on Jennie’s Chanel Spring/Summer 2020 RTW frock makes her look more juvenile than sophisticated, and whilst Lisa had her moment in the opening scene, her full body shot reveals how the Celine could be shapelier. Jisoo’s heavily embellished number is most promising, but again, what’s the point?

2:27 – I appreciate the display of modernized hanbok from the brand Danha, though I wish the music video allowed us to admire these pieces more. In between the pulsating lights, background dancers, frequent cuts in editing and energetic choreography, the details of the outfits are lost—a shame because the embroidery, pattern and material are intriguing.

Regardless of the wins and wanes of the music video, the song itself is a commanding comeback that demonstrates full force how BLACKPINK can inspire girls of today and tomorrow. It’s a song by women, for women—and that’s what I like.

Edit (August 2020): BTS broke BLACKPINK's record for biggest YouTube premiere with 101.1 million views in the first 24 hours on their MV for "Dynamite".

Edit (May 2021): BTS broke their own record for biggest YouTube premiere with 108.2 million views in the first 24 hours on their MV for "Butter". "Know that I got that heat / Let me show you 'cause talk is cheap". BTS works hard for us, and we work hard for them. ARMY, it was a pleasure streaming together!

Image Source: Regard News, Vogue, hellokpop

7 Impractical Fashion Trends

Quarantine got me like…trying on my own clothes at home so I have new outfits to wear once I emerge from the cave and look like a civilized human being again. Things going well for you too?

All jokes aside, I did unearth a yellow Tommy Hilfiger zip-up windbreaker from my closet to see how I could serve up some ’90s vibes this summer (wow, when you’re so old your childhood trends come cycling back…). As I was voguing in front of the mirror, I decided to zip up the jacket halfway and pull down the sleeves so they sat across my upper arms in that off-the-shoulder look all the girls we envy are doing nowadays. I loved the concept as soon as I saw it on the runway at Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2016 RTW, and have since wanted so desperately to pull it off myself. But truth be told, it’s not that practical. And that realization got me thinking about all the fashion trends we fall prey to that are just plain impractical…


1. Off-the-Shoulder Jackets

I remember back in junior high when the “oops—I didn’t notice my jacket had slipped off my shoulder” move was a bit try-hard, yet the result of this very deliberate act nowadays appears ironically blasé. While you can choose to bare your shoulders, there’s added appeal when the slight disrobe is done not to expose skin, but rather to give the impression of being vaguely undone. The visual interest of this maneuver rests in the flattering ‘V’ across the chest and the depth achieved by revealing a layer underneath. However, going through life with your jacket off-kilter is more difficult than it looks because…you can’t really move your arms. To maintain optimal positioning, the most you can do with your arms is bend them at the elbow. You’ll risk your jacket slipping on (?) if you lift your arms any higher. And using a shoulder bag can easily ruin the effect—top-handle purses or fanny packs only. But I guess as long as you don’t try reaching the top shelf, straitjackets are stylish, right?


2. Bell Sleeves

With my fondness for feminine and romantic styles, bell sleeves are in my toolkit when I’m feeling girly. Although depending on how you style them, they can be pretty, hippie or vampy. What does stay consistent, however, is how bell sleeves bring drama to a sway of the arms. I only wish they didn’t have to attract every single particle in their path when all I’m looking to do is reach over to grab something. It’s like my sleeves go fishing in various sauces and dusting off surfaces as a side job. And don’t think it’s any better when I’m reaching up to grab something; reaching up causes the sleeve to flip back and expose an underside of seams and stitching…as well as feeble, totally-not-toned arms I’m obviously not in the mood to flaunt if I’m wearing long sleeves that day!


3. Mule Flats

We can thank Gucci for making mule flats a must-have in every wardrobe. I actually used to own a pair of embellished, brocade mule flats in high school (clearly I was not démodé; I was just ahead of my time…), but their apparent ease is deceiving: they are far from comfortable when you have to pound the pavement. Like flip flops, your toes are constantly grasping to keep the mules from suddenly deserting you. Once, as my friends and I were running across the street to catch a light, one of my mules completely detached from my foot and landed smack dab in the middle of the crosswalk in front of a line of cars. Bathed in the heat of embarrassment, I stumbled and tottered as I wriggled my foot back in. Not cute. I say mule flats are better left for their originally intended use of making the trip from the fridge to the couch.


4. Shoulder Robing

Shoulder robing is the act of draping a jacket over your shoulders without putting your arms through the sleeves. The term itself already sounds pretentious, doesn’t it? Yet I confess every time I see a woman shoulder robing, I want to be her. Those who have the power to keep a jacket balanced precariously on their shoulders must surely be blessed by the sartorial saints. Because on mere mortals, a slight twitch of a microbladed eyebrow can send the whole contraption crashing down. Do these enviable beings tape the jackets to their shoulders? Hold them impeccably in place by sheer strength of their CrossFit shoulders? Are there secretly straps they have looped around their underarms? Whatever witchcraft it is, I must know.


5. Tiny Sunglasses

Micro shades had their moment…and I’m glad it was only a moment. I was initially charmed by the potential for these vintage, gothy frames to transform me into someone who looks artsy, cool and bearing a hard edge in the form of a constant grievance against the injustices of life. Alas, teeny tiny sunglasses only look good perched literally halfway down my nose. Anywhere higher and I look like someone out of the Matrix or John Lennon—neither of which make me feel remotely like Bella Hadid. I also love the shield of anonymity sunglasses provide (truth be told, I’ve enjoyed walking out with mirrored sunglasses and a face mask), so sliding them down halfway to leave my eyes fully naked strikes me as counterintuitive. Not to mention I can barely see where I’m going when I have to squint against the deadly rays of nature. What’s the point of sunglasses when they don’t even protect you from the sun?


6. Kimono Cardigans

I know kimono cardigans seem fairly innocent and they’re probably not what come to mind when you think of impractical fashion trends: they’re lightweight and airy, easy to put on and take off, and don’t require much styling to make a statement. Yet living in a city that has merciless wind even on summer days when the sun is shining brightly, I wish my silky kimono weren’t such a pushover. Forget draping and floating gracefully around me; half the time my kimono is either flailing frantically like a fish out of water, blowing between my legs when I walk like the tail of a frightened puppy, or flapping perpendicular to my body as I clutch onto it with dear life so it doesn’t fly away completely. Verdict: kimonos only look good indoors.


7. White Sneakers

As someone who once swore off sneakers, I have now admittedly acquired nine pairs of rubber soles—two of which are white. I still fantasize about adding white and green Adidas Stan Smiths to my collection (thanks to Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2015 RTW), despite the absolute nightmare I know they would be to keep clean. I take five steps in any pair of white sneakers and they already look like I’ve dragged them through the Sahara Desert. Bless the poor unsuspecting soul who once stepped on my newly cleaned white sneakers during a street festival and had to endure the wrath of my internal monologue. If you see someone wearing white sneakers that haven’t yet turned brown, you know they love their shoes because it takes honest commitment to keep those babies clean.


Bonus Items

And then there are the usual offenders we already know of so well they require no further explanation, including…

• High heels – Eminem's 'Love The Way You Lie' ft. Rihanna (#throwback) is an apropos theme song: Just gonna stand there and watch me burn / Well that’s alright because I like the way it hurts.
• Clutches – Already talked about this here.
• Jumpsuits – Because we all love stripping down and shivering in the lavatory.
• Short skirts – I do have to, you know, sit sometimes.
• Large earrings – Does anyone know if Dumbo has room in his circus? Because I’m a clown for literally dragging my ears through that.
• Nylons – I swear, those things would have the audacity to snag on a cotton ball.

Lessons Learned

After all this, I came to the gloomy recognition so much effort is spent making ourselves up for our still-frames. Let’s face it—from the wrong angle, we all have three chins. But instead, we adorn and display ourselves in what are essentially costumes for that one snapshot we can share on Instagram. What people don’t see is us tripping over our mule flats as our micro shades slide off the tip of our nose and our shoulder robes disassemble onto the sidewalk. Showing off our edited personas has the unintended consequence of making our followers aspire to the unrealistic…

…But before I fall too far down the hole of contemplating our sociological realities now that I have more time on my hands than I know what to do with, I think I’ve learned two simple lessons: (1) I’m a sucker for fashion, and (2) I need to get out of the house.

A word on recent events: we have made great strides but let us never remain complacent in our fight for a better world. We stand together in defending our right to breathe the gift of life. #BlackLivesMatter

Image Source: Savoir Flair, The Heart's Delight, Who What Wear, Telegraph, Elle, KIM + ONO, Marie Claire

What it Means to be a Man

So, how’s self-isolation and physical distancing going for everyone? As someone who grew up thinking she was an introvert, only to realize with the clarity of adulthood that I’m actually a shy extrovert, COVID-19 had me coming down with cabin fever after Day 1. However, as tedious as all of this can be, sooner or later, you get into the rhythm of it. It’s like running a marathon (not that I’ve ever run one) or singing 99 Bottles of Beer (not that I’ve ever done that in earnest either because…why. But you get what I mean.)

After all, I’m grateful I can do my duty by simply staying at home. To all those essential workers who don’t have the option to stay at home, thank you for doing what you do. And to all those whose only option is to stay at home because they no longer have a job to go to, we will get through this together. 

One great thing to do while chez toi is to read. I’ve been particularly into non-fiction lately (some personal favourites: Homo Deus: A History of Tomorrow by Yuval Noah Harari, Scarlet A: The Ethics, Law, and Politics of Ordinary Abortion by Katie Watson, and What Happened by Hilary Clinton) and recently finished reading the book Boys: What It Means to Become a Man by Rachel Giese. While I wish the book would have delved deeper into its analysis for a more powerful and cohesive thesis, Giese makes an enlightening point about masculinity amid the waves of growing feminist discourse. I’ve pieced together some excerpts from what I consider the most fascinating chapter in the book:

As a culture, we have poked enough holes in assumptions about femininity and femaleness that most of us now celebrate the idea of girl power…But when it comes to challenging gender stereotypes and their effects on boys, we haven’t been nearly as thorough or thoughtful…we haven’t cast enough of a critical eye on the demands of masculinity—for instance, the expectations that men be physically aggressive, sexually dominant, emotionally stoic, tough and in control—and the impact those expectations have on boys who do and don’t live up to them…The sexual revolution, feminism, civil rights movements, technological innovation, globalization: taken together, these movements have altered, to an unprecedented degree, what it means to be male…And as old notions about masculinity and femininity fall away, there is a palpable angst about what should replace them. This time of instability and change has given rise to a pervasive belief that gains in rights and power for women must mean men are losing out…in order for change to be real and lasting, feminism can’t stop at transforming the lives of girls and women; it has to transform the lives of boys and men too…what can we learn from feminism and the fight for equality for girls and women, to create more liberating and expansive forms of masculinity for boys and men?

If you’ve been wondering why right-wing populism has gained traction over the past couple of years, or why some feel they now have permission to unleash words and acts of intolerance, or why it seems we’ve taken a step back in progress, maybe it is because we have groups of people who feel that what they have known to be true, stable and indisputable—their rights, beliefs and identity—is now under threat. But that’s not their fault. I realize I may be saying this while perched atop my Ivory Tower, but I believe it’s our responsibility as a society to not leave anyone behind nor leave anyone out. Everyone deserves a chance to catch up, to redeem themselves, to find love over hate.

And so I think we need to recognize and address the expectations we put on men. Not just for their sake—but for feminism’s sake as well.

On a lighter note, let’s look at how expanding the notion of masculinity has played out in fashion. Back in 2013, I wrote briefly about how women effortlessly step into androgyny, but that step is more of a leap for men. We were (and still are) far from the finish line in terms of allowing men to express themselves through dress in as many varied ways as women could, yet we did see the slow-but-steady acceptance of men who cared about fashion. At the time, the term ‘metrosexual’ still existed, but its use was starting to wane. It no longer seemed necessary (nor in proper decorum) to single out men who paid special attention to their grooming and style. In 2015, a friend shared with me a subreddit called r/malefashionadvice, an internet community where men provided constructive feedback on each other’s outfits with surprising fervour. I was astonished to see men speaking so candidly about fit, colour, texture, and proportion.

Fast forward to 2020, and not only are we seeing the runways awash with blurred lines between menswear and womenswear, we’re finally seeing men express shameless enthusiasm for fashion.

PewDiePie, who got his start as a gamer on YouTube, has shown considerable appreciation for apparel. In addition to uploading two videos exploring the intersection of fashion and meme culture, he also filmed two ‘Closet Review’ videos where he took viewers on a piece-by-piece tour of his wardrobe, supplemented by sincere commentary that reveals a genuine respect for design. At one point, he brings out a pair of white Balenciaga Lace-Up Speed Knit Runners, which he lambastes himself for buying because he realizes he can’t even bear to wear them outside (like my Tod’s). My favourite part came when he jokes about people accidentally bumping against his Balenciagas in restaurants, and how he has to brush it off with an indifferent “it’s fine” when in reality he’s outraged his white runners are subjected to such careless treatment. OK, RELATABLE. I, too, must put on an untroubled smile to hide the insufferable pain I experience when anyone or anything so much as grazes against my most prized footwear. Just. Don’t. Touch. My. Shoes. And everything will be okay.

j-hope, a particularly sartorial-conscious member of K-pop band BTS, has also admitted to abiding by the maxim of “Don’t step on my clothes. Step on my body instead.” OK, AGAIN, RELATABLE. If an errant blob of ketchup were to ever come hurtling towards me, I would gladly sacrifice my flesh to shield the precious fibres of my attire. I never thought I could feel such kinship with men over something like shared views on fashion.

And as a final shout out, to the men I know in real life who proudly express their personality through coloured or novelty socks (you know who you are), or who show remarkable dedication to keeping their shoes clean, kudos to you for giving us hope men can care about style and for normalizing what it can mean to be a modern man.

When we give men the freedom to define masculinity for themselves, we give them the freedom to redefine their place in the world. We give them the opportunity to find equality. One day, the question will no longer be what it means to be a man, or what it means to be a woman—but what does it mean to be you?

Image Source: Niche, Financial Times, L'Officiel Singapore, Fashionista

Out of This World

It's the day of ghouls and instead of a blatantly seasonal blog post (like a compilation of spooky clothing items), I'm taking a different approach to the theme of Halloween.

BEWARE: Not for the faint of heart.

Over the summer, I noticed the growing prominence of Canadian design duo Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran of the Instagram handle @matieresfecales -- or in less elegant words, Fecal Matter. When first encountering their Instagram, one might oscillate between varying emotions, including viscerally disturbed, morbidly fascinated or creatively stimulated. Infamously known for their skin boots -- high-heeled boots that look like grotesque human feet -- Fecal Matter has tapped into a unique niche of alien fashion.

I was in disbelief when I first witnessed their images, madly wondering if the most bewildering bits were a result of digital manipulation. But in realizing the couple painstakingly create each look using makeup and fashion, I was dumbfounded. Their work is incredibly unsettling, yet there is an odd otherworldly beauty to it, as if the protruding edges are rounded and softened by artistry.

Fecal Matter is not alone though. I started noticing more individuals online with similar aesthetic lifestyles, Rick Owens recently transformed models into alien creatures for his Fall/Winter 2019 RTW show, and Valentino took to the unearthly by bleaching models' eyebrows that same season. Of course, my mind goes to Mugler and Alexander McQueen as arbiters of this particular type of extraterrestrial fashion, and the runway (among many other creative platforms) has always been a space for futuristic captivation to cultivate, but we're experiencing recognition of a lifestyle niche that takes nonhuman visuals to out-of-this-world heights.

So what's making us push ourselves to the outer cosmos? Humankind has always had a burning curiosity about the celestial, but the embrace of it as a form of self-expression I think is largely driven by our modern understanding of gender identity. We no longer have to be either feminine or masculine -- or even anything in between -- because we now have the liberty to present ourselves as not even human. Does that desire come from a frustration with the limitations or downfalls of humanity? A disappointment with the current state of affairs? An escapist sentiment bubbling over as we become fed up with feeling like progress is regressing?

Or, is it rooted in an appreciation of the fundamental gift of human life and our potential to achieve so much more?

On a lighter note, I read somewhere that the alien aesthetic can be traced to the return of nineties fashion. I remember TV shows like The Jetsons or X-Files, and all the lurid alien movies of the decade, and it's as if we're once again going back to speculating what extraterrestrial beings could look like -- but this time with self-aware irony. When the Storm Area 51 raid ended up being a kitschy alien parade, it was clear we can now admit with a sense of humour we truly have no idea what's out there.

For many years, I have found intrigue in the universe and consider our lives intimately linked to the flow of the above and beyond. I once saw a slogan on an H&M t-shirt that I absolutely loved: Aliens Believe in Us. Let's keep having fun believing in aliens, with the hopes they believe in us too.

PS: You can bet I'm also using this topic as an excuse to bring up Shane Dawson's new makeup collaboration with Jeffree Star, the alien queen himself. I have been a fan of Shane for 7 years, through every phase he has had on YouTube. I'm thoroughly engrossed in his latest docuseries like a proud mother hen (pig?), and am thrilled to see him finally achieve all the happiness and success he so fully deserves. I stan creativity, hard work and a beautifully genuine soul. The Jeffree Star Cosmetics x Shane Dawson Conspiracy Collection launches November 1!

Image Source: Fecal Matter, Dazed Digital, Shane Dawson

The Modern Socialite

After giving social media influencers a hard time in my previous blog post, I thought it best to even out the playing field. This post was inspired by an incident that occurred back in 2016, but with the still-prevalent ubiquity of social stars today, the fraught battle between old media and new media remains as relevant as before.

In a recap of Spring/Summer 2017 Milan Fashion Week, Vogue.com editors made scathing remarks about the fashion bloggers in attendance:

"Note to bloggers who change head-to-toe, paid-to-wear outfits every hour: Please stop. Find another business. You are heralding the death of style." -- Sally Singer

"...the professional blogger bit, with the added aggression of the street photographer swarm who attend them, is horrible, but most of all, pathetic for these girls, when you watch how many times the desperate troll up and down outside shows, in traffic, risking accidents even, in hopes of being snapped." -- Sarah Mower

"It’s not just sad for the women who preen for the cameras in borrowed clothes, it’s distressing, as well, to watch so many brands participate." -- Nicole Phelps

"...how funny it is that we even still call them 'bloggers,' as so few of them even do that anymore. Rather than a celebration of any actual style, it seems to be all about turning up, looking ridiculous, posing, twitching in your seat as you check your social media feeds, fleeing, changing, repeating...I have to think that soon people will wise up to how particularly gross the whole practice of paid appearances and borrowed outfits looks. Looking for style among a bought-and-paid-for ('blogged out?') front row is like going to a strip club looking for romance." -- Alessandra Codinha

Clearly, the crows were out to feast! Every single editor featured in that article couldn't help but express utter distaste at the swarms of influencers making a living off online profiles. Not surprisingly, Vogue ruffled the feathers of those they called peacocks. Among the many responses to the provoking assertions, the one that inspired me to write this post was published by Fashion Magazine in an interview with Canadian fashion bloggers Sam and Cailli Beckerman:

"Calling anyone pathetic because they like to have fun with fashion is awful. What we do is a legit job. We’re editors and journalists, too—it’s just on our own platform."


Them vs. us; you vs. me is a disappointing mindset to have, and one which I believe powers much of the world's conflict, intolerance and antagonism. So if you've already pitched your tent in support of one side of the quarrel, I ask that you erase such notions and proceed with me, because we've got some exploring to do.

The fashion editors...they had a point. There are undoubtedly bloggers out there who are paid to wear outfits they probably wouldn't promote if it weren't for the dollars they received just to slide those pieces over their bodies and arrange themselves flatteringly in front of the cameras. Vogue's criticism is not unwarranted. Authenticity has become a precious rarity. Around the time blogging became monetized and bloggers became celebrities, we lost the bona fide feeling of closeness to those whose words and images we scrolled through. And the extent to which some influencers will go to be snapped -- blocking traffic, posturing, grasping for attention -- can be quite unfortunate to see. The show is not about them; it's about the designer. Paid-to-wear outfits can perpetuate superficial style, so I don't blame Vogue editors for their disparaging comments. At least they had the guts to speak up with crushing honesty about what they saw as undignified behaviour.

But of course, not all bloggers in borrowed clothes lack substance to their style. We can't just assume influencers dress up for the money. I'm sure many bloggers genuinely love the garments they get paid to wear, and if they're like me, probably welcome any opportunity to experiment with different styles, brands and attitudes. A sincere love for fashion can manifest itself as a willingness to wear absolutely anything. And to preen and prance is arguably what these bloggers are paid to do. It is their job to be seen. Did Vogue editors have to attack bloggers with such venomous language? Probably not. They erroneously allowed the actions of a few to impair their perception of the many.

And the Beckerman twins make a good point: many bloggers have worked hard to get to where they are. Whether a fashion editor or a fashion blogger, we're all just trying to build a career out of pursuing our passions. I would discourage against partitioning out the industry and assuming one group is more elite than the other. Fashion editors cannot boast to have uttermost integrity either. They march to the beat of advertising dollars, and no one reads a fashion publication believing all of its content is unadulterated by commercialism, corporate motivations and obligatory praise. Our modern, self-made socialites have managed to carve a portion of the industry for themselves, and I think we should be proud of that. Fashion is becoming more accessible and interactive. Social media mavens have inspired countless everyday youth to embrace creativity and believe that dreams can be within reach.

So after all this, whose side am I on? I started off on nobody's side, and I will end on nobody's side. Because ultimately, I am on everybody's side. I respect the calibre of our editors, while still admiring the entrepreneurship of our influencers. Let us recognize our common goal of making a difference in the world by doing what we love -- and support each other in doing so. We are a team, and together, we make up this wonderful thing called fashion.

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Image Source: I Am Schick, INM, Vogue, Marie Claire, 

The Source of Paying More

Get ready for a rant because I am peeved.

You know how much I adore shoes. They will forever be one of the greatest loves of my life. So when I heard Payless ShoeSource released a commercial where they opened up a fake luxury shoe store and successfully pranked shoppers into believing their shoes were worth up to $640, my inner footwear diva was instantly offended. Yes, I have a bias for high-end footwear. Yes, I sometimes display immediate displeasure at certain shoes without so much as a second glance. But I also like to think of my bias as a heartfelt respect for the art of well-designed, well-made shoes.

And in reality, your home girl shops at ALDO, which is far closer on the scale to Payless than any luxury brand. I may be a snob, but I am not delusional. I am fully supportive of affordable footwear, and have said before that fashion which appears to be of high quality does not have to break the bank. I strongly believe in clever ways of faking it 'till you make it, baby.

Before we start peeling apart the situation, let us first take a look at the commercial:

Initial Thoughts

No way. There is NO WAY you can mistake Payless shoes for something worth anything more than $100. I have been in Payless multiple times before, and based on my knowledge of their merchandise, I am adamant there are no shoes in there which can remotely pass as high-end. As soon as I heard about this campaign, I was absolutely certain there was more to the story than what the headlines led us to believe. Which is why I am going to start breaking it down and showing exactly why Payless managed to pull this commercial off (sort of).


The Intent Behind Using Influencers

Payless used social media influencers in their commercial. That statement alone pretty much explains the entire situation. I had a difficult time imagining everyone who browsed through Palessi -- whether they be fashion industry folk, affluent shoppers familiar with high-end wares, or even random passersby from the public who wandered into the store -- all being fooled by the façade. But once I learned only social media influencers were invited to peruse the shoes, everything made sense because...well, influencers are a special breed.

The very nature of being a social media maven is to promote merchandise, and we all know how the allure of sponsorships and paid promotions can propagate inauthentic words of praise. So just imagine you have a bunch of (probably) D-list social media influencers who are invited to a swanky, glamorous party, and you shove a microphone in their face on camera to ask what they think of the shoes. I'm pretty sure no one would dare criticize the shoes, even if simply to be polite. In fact, in order to leave the door open for future opportunities with you, they might actually compliment and rave about your shoes. And heck, if nothing else, they would put on a face to show their followers they're having a fantastic time at this oh-so-luxe event.

And let me clarify one thing: social media influencers are not necessarily experts in fashion. They are experts in influencing. Many social stars may enjoy nice clothes and looking good, but their understanding of fashion may not go beyond the superficial. Their true skill sets lie, after all, in how to create and promote engaging content -- that's their bread and butter. One particularly pointed, yet not altogether unjustified, comment on Instagram opined, "Great job Payless for exposing the fraud that this 'influencer' movement represents." Ouch. But really, Payless does not stock any footwear that is made from real leather, so basically you're telling me these influencers couldn't even distinguish between synthetic and genuine leather...?

Payless was deliberate in who they set up. You think the corporate minds at Payless didn't sit around a conference table discussing exactly what kind of individuals to invite? They made a clearly conscious decision to not bring in actual fashion experts, and didn't even run the risk of having random members of the public blow their cover.


A Shameful Social Media

I feel bad for harping on influencers so much, but they really did paint a bulls eye on themselves here. Being social media influencers, I imagine the first thing they would do upon receiving an invite from Palessi is to...check out the company's social media pages! And yet if they really did, then how could they not have been suspicious from the start?

Look at Palessi's Instagram page. What kind of luxury company would post these grainy, low resolution photos? And isn't it odd how they posted a total of 24 photos on October 25 -- half of which don't even contain shoes?

And their website is laughable. Granted, the site has been edited since the campaign so I'm not aware of what it looked like before, but the shoes currently showcased on the landing page are dead giveaways. The rubber sole, man-made material, and bumbling shape of the stilettos would have been obvious from miles away. Yet hilariously, Palessi has blown up and magnified the images to the point it should have been impossible to miss these details.

The problem is, the social media influencers probably didn't look too deeply into what Palessi was, or if they did, chose to ignore what they found. There are countless influencers on the Internet who knowingly advertise for (Chinese) clothing companies which have abysmal quality and deplorable customer service, and YouTube was rife with recent drama over high profile content creators who just didn't do enough research on what they promoted. Ignorance is bliss.


Auctioned Away

Although Payless has not confirmed outright, it does appear some shoes were sold through an auction format, giving Payless that sweet, sweet opportunity to drive home the fact their shoes fetched up to $640.

This move too is entirely deliberate. An auction allowed Payless to capture inflated dollar figures for their campaign. If you attach an outrageous price tag to an item that can't live up to the figure, shoppers might not bite. But if you pit influencers against each other in a friendly game of bidding, you can possibly get them in the right mood to spend more. The auction was yet another strategic decision that granted Payless the perfect little media snippet.


Glamour Shot

Let's be honest with ourselves and not deny that the atmosphere of a store can most certainly affect our perception of quality. No matter how much we may try to judge the inherent value of a fashion item, a lot of what we think (and how much $$$ we shell out) is impacted by brand value. Brands in favour have the freedom to demand more in exchange for their promised fantasy. By simply setting up shop in a former Armani store in LA alongside other luxury giants, Palessi gave themselves some leverage against even the more discerning influencers. A poorly made shoe might just seem decently bearable perched on a gleaming glass shelf. Add to that scores of beautiful people at a glamorous party by invitation only, and you have a stunt that is one step closer to believable.


Take To The Streets

I aim, if nothing else, to be fair. So before I gave myself the liberty to knock on Payless, I did actually go out and try it. I was a girl on a mission as I visited two separate Payless stores to confirm: (1) Could I find the shoes presented in the commercial? (2) Was the quality actually impressive enough to deceive?

First of all, yes, I was successful in finding most of the shoes filmed in the campaign, with the exception of the gold and leopard print sneakers which appeared to be Palessi's pride and glory (though I found many similar styles). The majority of shoes used were, not surprisingly, from the Christian Siriano line, but I do give Payless credit for keeping the stunt honest.

In terms of quality, Payless was far better than expected, though still hardly exceptional. While some shoes veered towards trendy, the designs were overall basic and banal, lacking the originality of luxury footwear. I was disappointed to see a rubber underside on every shoe (instead of leather soles), and was put off by all the fake leather and textile uppers. However, I will say some of the synthetic leather was smooth enough as to almost pass for the real thing at first brush of the hand, unlike the nauseating polyurethane normally used by bargain stores. And I didn't see as many exaggerated toe springs (often seen on poorly made shoes which need to roll forward in order to compensate for lack of flexibility in the sole) and sloppy stitching as I had anticipated. Yet despite the reasonable craftsmanship, the devil is in the details. Payless pumps all came with -- in addition to a seam in the back -- a second seam along the arch of the foot, a surefire sign that more than one piece of material was used to construct the shoe. A high quality pump will possess only one seam along the back of the heel. Upon inspection of their ankle boots, I found one particular design with braided straps which were cut bluntly near the zipper, leaving a distasteful number of unfinished ends. Any luxury shoemaker would close the loop on such details.

After my evaluation of the shoes, I pegged their worth at around $40 (not $640!), which turned out to be exactly what most of the price tags asked for. I am happy to say Payless is at least principled in their pricing.


Final Thoughts

The news headlines surrounding this campaign were almost farcical:

"Payless pranks customers by getting them to buy its discount shoes at designer prices."
"Payless shoes fools fashion snobs, sells discount shoes at luxury prices."
"Payless opens fake luxury store, dupes influencers into paying hundreds for shoes."

In some ways, Payless did manage to dupe a bunch of shoppers -- but not because of how great their shoes were. This campaign was a carefully constructed scenario that took full advantage of the behaviours and motivations of those who were invited. This is not a prank that would have succeeded if a single foot stepped outside of those meticulously drawn parameters. My conclusion? The real dupes are those who think this experiment said anything about the quality of Payless shoes.


Image Source: PYMNTS, Adweek, Ad to Date, Bustle, Rouse Hill Town Centre, Forbes

Heavenly Bodies

I've been very upfront about my relationship with Versace. Never have I tried to hide the special place Versace has in my heart as the brand that ignited my lifelong passion back in 2007. Though it dawned on me there is one thing about this Italian house I have not yet talked about: Atelier Versace. So here I am today, ready to fully come clean to you about mon amour.

While the core Versace prêt-à-porter collections can at times come across as flashy and tacky, the haute couture arm of the brand, Atelier Versace, is consistently flawless. I first discovered Donatella Versace's brilliance in haute couture when I began to notice time and time again she was behind some of the most splendid red carpet moments over the years. Angelina Jolie is clearly a fan. Her statuesque emerald column at the Golden Globes? Her swipe of red the year after? Her iconic thigh high slit at the Oscars? All were thanks to Atelier Versace. And it's not just Jolie who looks jolie draped in Donatella. Selena Gomez deserved applause for her brazen gown with fluorescent accents, while Gigi Hadid struck a winning pose swathed in what looked like painterly strokes. Atelier Versace is like the Sia of fashion: it is the silent, underappreciated genius who makes other people look good.

But, of course, the red carpet alone cannot do justice exhibiting what Atelier Versace is truly capable of. For that, we must look to the collections themselves. Some of my personal highlights include...

Spring 2012 Couture: Gold metal splicing through with razor precision for maximum extraterrestrial glamour.

Spring 2016 Couture: Colour geometry and texture play pave the way for youthful yet thoughtful urban couture.

Fall 2016 Couture: This elegant dishabille, pleasantly reminiscent of Vionnet demi couture, encourages us to slip deeply into the folds.

Spring 2017 Couture: Deliberate use of mythology as a muse: the incarnation of Artemis through meticulous pleating and angular layering.

Fall 2017 Couture: Whether you see liquefied precious metals which harken back to Prabal Gurung, or a bronzed up Mystique in mid-transformation, this look is dripping with intrigue.

Fall 2017 Couture: A collection so strong I had to show it twice. With this embodiment of a winged crusader, Atelier Versace proves that perfection does exist.

Fall 2018 Couture: Natasha Poly serving up lewks which showcase the incredible workmanship behind the earnest art of embellishment.

What I see from years of couture is Donatella Versace has an acute awareness of shape and placement. She is able to gently trace intersecting lines across the canvas of the body in ways breathtakingly unexpected. She has honed her ability to carry out elaborate adornment by ensuring each and every bead serves a purpose. Wearing Atelier Versace is like indulging in that split second sensation after emerging from a dream where fantasy and reality are still lusciously intertwined. When it comes to haute couture confections, Elie Saab may be king but Atelier Versace is divine, blessing us with pieces crafted by the hands of angels in what may as well be the house of heaven.

Back when Versace was founded, Gianni Versace chose Medusa as the subject of his logo because it was believed the serpentine sister had the power to make people fall hopelessly in love with her. Turns out Versace had the foresight of a prophet, because boy, am I ever in love.

Image Source: Dutch Girl Chronicle, Vogue