Fall/Winter 2013 RTW

It's time to accept I need to make some changes to the way I do my Fashion Week Marathons, which obviously haven't been happening at all. I can't do justice to collections without proper comprehensive reviews, yet at the same time, I have so little time to allot to blogging now that I rather condense my thoughts than not get my thoughts out at all (I would burst without somewhere to vent my opinions, so thank you Red-Soled Fashionista for saving me from fashion angst). As you can see, I've also changed up the design of my blog a little. You might recall I said that I've always cared more about the content of my blog than its design, and trust me, that hasn't changed! But now that I've acquired Photoshop skills that I didn't have two years ago, it's time for my blog to reflect my growth. So here's another way I'm reflecting the change in my lifestyle: my Fall/Winter 2013 RTW summary. I'm forgoing the naive years when I typed out detailed collection reviews, and sharing with you my quick thoughts on standout collections:

Givenchy

Bambi at Givenchy, ladies and gents. I love it.  I don't generally squeal like a little girl over cute cartoons, but this is different. Bambi grunge is how the cool girls do it.  Beyond the Bambi print, it was really the oversized sweater and sheer skirt combos that I found to be so appealing. Give me any of the sweaters from the collection, seriously, any!  This collection was rich with textures and prints, and the deconstructed peplums kicked the prim and proper ones of yester-season out of the spotlight. The last time I fell for a RTW collection from Givenchy was Spring/Summer 2012, so this collection is very exciting. Judging from the loud cheers from the audience, I think they would agree.

Watch the full show here.

Balenciaga

I, among many others, was quite anxious to see what the newly appointed Alexander Wang would make of Balenciaga. Now that I've seen his first collection, however, I am slightly less enthused. The overall silhouettes were simple and underwhelming, but don't get me wrong, I do see potential. The construction was impressive, with pinched shoulders and "unzipped" backs that looked as if they might slip right off, but at the same time, were extremely sturdy. For the arbiter of New York street fashion to suddenly take the reins of a prestigious couture house takes time. I applaud Wang for showing us his versatility - his ability to rise up to changing expectations - for I didn't catch much of his own aesthetic in these clothes. I believe he will adapt to the Balenciaga brand, and once he does, he will experiment to great effect.

Watch the full show here.

Louis Vuitton

It took me a while to get into this collection, but looking back, I appreciate it so much. This collection was rich with undertones, so excuse me if I ramble on in awe. Firstly, the silky slips peeping out from mannish coats - the sexual tension could not be more palpable. It wasn't tacky in any way though; this was a woman of composure, stalking the streets with her supple leather bags and hems lightly dusted with sequins. But at the same time, this was not a woman of complete power. There was a hint of shame as she walked the streets of night back home. What happened, we wonder, behind those closed hotel doors? Her face was void of light, and even the music, however beautiful, was disconcerting. This was Marc Jacob's most provocative show yet, despite its muted demeanor. Luckily, Jacobs drew us from our melancholy contemplation by taking a bow in a set of red pajamas. The message of the show: our most intimate moments.

Watch the full show here.

Oscar de la Renta

So many things to touch on in this collection! My first thoughts as the show started actually had nothing to do with the clothes. It was "Oh my gosh, it's Jeanne Beker front row!", then "Ah, there's Bill Cunningham across from her! Aww he's smiling."  And then I noticed what they were both smiling at: a turquoise bar jacket ensemble. Wait, did I say bar jacket?  Yes, because guess who was backstage?  None other than John Galliano, who Oscar de la Renta invited last month to be a designer-in-residence. We assume he pitched into this collection, as there were definitely hints of signature Galliano. If we focus on just de la Renta for a second, I would like to say that this collection was a complete relief for me. For the past couple of seasons, de la Renta has unsuccessfully tried to appeal to a younger market with messy modifications to his otherwise clean design talent. This season, it was finally back to what de la Renta does best. Now if we focus on Galliano, I could almost cry. I've been so deprived of Galliano's designing that this collection is like a gem to me. However, if we take de la Renta and Galliano together, the collection ultimately becomes a slightly confusing, disjointed compilation. But under the circumstances, I can let that pass.

Watch the full show here.

Marchesa

Marchesa used to be one of the collections I most looked forward to. Every look used to be so flawless and stunning that I even dreamed of wearing a Marchesa dress to grad. I adored their romantic touches, exquisite construction, and at times, hauntingly ethereal dresses. Nonetheless, lately, Marchesa has taken a turn for the worse. Ever since Spring/Summer 2012, when Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig ditched their beautiful fashion presentations for runway shows, their designs have strangely also gone in decline. Spring 2012 and Fall 2012 were still quite striking, even if less intriguing. In Spring 2013, the decline was more obvious - an unappealing attempt at mashing all the decorations of India into short dresses and pants (pants at Marchesa??), or exaggerating their opulence into Hollywood gowns. And here we are a Fall 2013, where the draping has gone haywire, bunching at the most unflattering of places. The construction is messy, and all I can do is describe this collection in one word: wrinkled. There was at most a total of three good looks - much fewer than there used to be.

See the entire collection here.


That is surprisingly all for now! There are a large number of shows this season that aren't posted on Youtube in HD, and I never watch clips unless it covers the full show and it's in good quality. Otherwise, you fail to get a solid understanding of the collection, and you end up missing out on a lot of fascinating details if a blurry model walks past you at 360p or 480p. Marchesa is obviously the exception here, as I couldn't help but say something about the collection. More to come if I find myself itching to become vocal again about Fall/Winter 2013, and as always, I welcome any requests for collection reviews!

Image Source: Style.com

Givenchy Spring 2012 Couture

I've always wanted to do a review on Givenchy couture, because for the past couple of seasons, its couture has just been absolutely exquisite and a pleasure to look at.  However, I never ended up making a post because as intricate as Givenchy's couture was, it was the same general look every season.   

Fall 2011 Couture



Spring 2011 Couture



Fall 2010 Couture

You were guaranteed to see sheer skirts, and skeleton-like embroidery.  Beautiful, no doubt, but I didn't want to see "beautiful" get stuck in a rut.  Luckily, Riccardo Tisci has never gone past the line, and the exceptional detailing has continually made each couture collection a success.  But, before Fall 2010, he's demonstrated that he can do more than just sheer skirts and magnificent detailing in his couture shows, and I was happy to see that he reminded us of that with his Spring 2012 Couture collection:

Quite a difference, huh?  Some people might not like the dark, harshness of this collection compared to the previous ethereal, romantic collections, but every designer needs to mix it up once in a while, and right now is Tisci's time.  First, he played around with crocodile skin, but of course, seeing as this is couture, that's not enough.  According to Nicole Phelps at Style.com, "The scales on the hide were individually cut and numbered, then bleached, dyed, and resewn one by one in order onto a tulle body stocking."  A total of 350 hours, ladies and gentlemen.

Next came crystals, my favourite part of the collection.  The draped sleeves on the first white dress are so angelic, and if you really want to get a good look at them, I encourage you go to the link below.  The back of all these creations have just as many surprises as the front.  There was a mix of high and low, with the fanciest overalls you will ever see worn overtop a plain white tank. 

Finally, in the black and white section, the essence of the collection was summed up.  Dark and light.  A haunting, almost off-putting collection (those noserings and earrings still give me goosebumps everytime I look at them), glamorized with breathtaking bits of lightness.  In a completely abstract way that may only make sense in my mind, it was like a piece of text that was first bolded, then italicized.

This was such an escape from Tisci's couture collections as of late.  I genuinely hopes he continues to explore beyond his beloved sheer skeletons...with the occasional visit back.  We could never give up those pieces of art.

See the collection in more detail here.

Image Source: Style.com

Guilty Pleasures

My latest trip to Holt Renfrew involved helping my friend pick up - not a handbag this time - but nine items of clothing (she's a bit of a spender).  Currently, Holt Renfrew is having their Summer Sale, and they have racks of shoes included in this sale.  I took this as the perfect opportunity to try on shoes I could only dream of owning.  In total, I tried on six pairs of shoes, but the following three, I think, are worth talking about.

First up is the Gucci Kelis Platform in purple.  The moment I saw it, I was head over heels.  I loved the Spring/Summer 2011 Gucci collection, and the fact that this is straight off the runway had me giddy in lust.  As well, the deep purple velvet pairs glamorously with the gold python in true Gucci style.

Verdict:  As hot as these shoes are, they're only meant for admiring.  The heel is much too high and dainty for me to handle, and with two thin straps holding my foot in, walking was far from easy (how do models do it??).  Despite its impracticality, the shoe looked fairly good from all angles when I was standing, especially from behind.  These straight-from-the-runway heels might be best left on the runway, but trying them on was priceless.

Up second is the Valentino Mesh Floral Sandal in black.  I first saw this pair of heels in a magazine, and when I saw it in Holt Renfrew, I was reminded of why I love Valentino so much.  The label's wispy, ethereal femininity is translated through the mesh, floral appliqué and lace-up back ankle strap.

Verdict: This shoe is as beautiful on the rack as it is when it's worn.  I was afraid that the appliquéd front would be overwhelming and heavy on the foot, but the mesh, delicate peep toe and open heel ensure that the shoe remains light.  While the lacing at the back makes putting on the shoe take more time than I would like, it's the details that count.  Height-wise, this shoe was much easier to walk in than the Gucci's, and out of all the shoes I tried on, the Valentino's are the ones I would actually buy if I had the money (and the appropriate occasion).

Lastly is the Givenchy Gold Toe Ballet Flat.  This pair of shoes wasn't on sale, but what caught my eye was obviously the gold metal toe.  It's industrial, but altogether very glamorous, and I like the contrast between the hard metal toe and the soft blush pink.

Verdict: There's not much that can go wrong with a pair of flats, and the metal toe adds a nice tough-glam touch.  It's a unique pair of flats, and you can rest assured you won't see look-a-likes on the streets.  The back of the shoe did scratch my foot, but that can probably be fixed with proper sizing.  However, while there's no risk of stubbing your toes, accidentally scuffing the metal toe just might make your heart break a little inside.

To finish off my shopping trip, I popped some chocolates from the front desk in my mouth, and grabbed my complimentary pretzel and old fashioned bottle of root beer.  Anyone who doesn't dare step foot in Holt Renfrew simply because it's expensive doesn't know what they're missing.

Image Source: Gucci, Valentino, Givenchy