When Worlds Collide

My worlds are colliding and I'm sitting back to watch the sparks fly. In April 2021, BTS, the biggest music group in the world right now, was announced as global brand ambassadors for Louis Vuitton. As an addict of both fashion and BTS, I was very happy with this news. 

I have been wanting to blog about Louis Vuitton for a while now; I have admired Nicolas Ghesquière's work over the past few years and believe his collections at Louis Vuitton to be underappreciated. I sang his praises during his debut Fall/Winter 2014 RTW collection, and he did not disappoint in the years following. Granted, he doesn't get everything right, but he gets right what he needs to get right—which is to say, he always has standout pieces. His Spring/Summer 2017 RTW collection portrays a sense of elevated experimentation: draped jersey dresses sliced with daring cutouts, and sheer floor-length numbers sprinkled with crystals and glitter. Spring/Summer 2018 RTW gave us rich brocade coats, and beautiful chiffon dresses trimmed with stiff, ruffled sleeves. His work may seem eccentric and messy at times, but I believe it takes a deep understanding of fashion for someone to break the rules with such discerning abandon.

Virgil Abloh has also been doing excellent work as artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear collections. His work is thoughtful and unique; it upgrades the mundane and makes the lavish approachable. The adorable stuffed animals in Abloh's Spring/Summer 2021 Menswear collection were exceptional: a fun way to bring back the childhood innocence we lose through adulthood. His Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear show in January was an artistic, relevant homage to his African heritage using sumptuous textiles and a magnificent shade of green that I can't move on from. Best of all, both these collections have been worn by BTS (including, at the Grammy Awards, no less).

And it is this Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear collection that I want to talk about next. Yesterday, BTS's official account tweeted that the group will be part of Louis Vuitton's upcoming Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear show in Seoul, and included a teaser video of each member wearing looks from the collection.

We are excited to be part of the upcoming #LouisVuitton show in Seoul!
💜 this tweet to set a reminder to watch on July 7th at 7pm (KST).
#BTS #방탄소년단 #LVMenFW21 pic.twitter.com/mZggkzaG0o

— BTS_official (@bts_bighit) July 5, 2021

Let's break things down:

• Jimin (my OG bias) is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. I'm glad the stylists kept the fly wraparound sunglasses, because if there's anyone who can pull off playful mixing of streetwear and high fashion, it's Jimin.
• RM is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. As is befitting of the group's leader, RM suits classically broad and brooding silhouettes, and the hat is a fine choice for him in particular.
• Suga (my current bias) is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. Although not shown in the shot, I have no doubt he is doing justice to the suit's slimmer cut. Besides, his elegantly styled steel blue hair is the real winner here.
• j-hope is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. A boldly patterned ensemble with scarlet boots is practically made for him. I smile knowing how much he adores fashion and thinking how ecstatic he must feel to be working with Louis Vuitton.
• V is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. He is the image of refinement in a sophisticated long coat, effortlessly living up to his title as one of the most handsome men in the world.
• Jungkook is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. He directs his signature piercing gaze towards the camera as his gleaming accessories riff off the thick ridges of a textured blazer.
• Jin is wearing this look from #LVMenFW21. What could be more appropriate than ending the teaser with a mysterious glance from Worldwide Handsome in a sharp, crimson plaid overcoat?

There will be a lot of eyes on Louis Vuitton's next show—more eyes than runway is normally used to. Runway is not something the general public watches, and even fashionistas may only casually follow runway collections. The BTS ARMY, however, is composed of millions of individuals across the globe from diverse backgrounds. There will undoubtedly be those in the fandom who have little interest or knowledge of luxury fashion, and some may even find it downright ridiculous. So it goes without saying Louis Vuitton will have a lot of pressure to satisfy a much wider audience united in their wholehearted love for BTS, while still fulfilling the features of a high fashion presentation. As Louis Vuitton itself tweeted, "High expectations."

Indeed there will be high expectations, but I think it is important to remember to thank Abloh, Louis Vuitton and BTS for participating in this collaboration. I hope we continue see opportunities like this that break boundaries for underrepresented groups, recognize the adversity they face, and celebrate the hard work that has led to their countless achievements.

Update: I almost choked on my butter. Louis Vuitton did not let high expectations faze them. Virgil Abloh's Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear presentation in Seoul with house ambassadors BTS was so tastefully executed I expect it will satisfy all audiences. Watch the full show here.

Image Source: WWD

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2014 RTW

The very first Louis Vuitton collection I saw was back in Spring/Summer 2008.  Needless to say, Marc Jacobs has always been a part of what I considered to be Louis Vuitton's DNA.  I could not envision a Louis Vuitton without him. So when he announced his departure from the historic label just a few months ago, it felt like a train had come raging through my reality, destroying all that I knew to be right (to see my emotional recap of his last show, click here).

But at hearing of Nicolas Ghesquière's appointment to Louis Vuitton after his earlier departure from Balenciaga (which I also recount here), I realized how bittersweet this entire arrangement really is. Yes, two of the most respected designers in the industry left the labels they had nursed for over a decade, but the way I see it, it was all for the better.

Jacobs had developed numerous memorable collections during his time at Louis Vuitton, and had managed to create several iconic looks out of it, but sometimes the lines between Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs (now rebranded as MBMJ) blurred. There were times when I would skip the Marc Jacobs collections because I knew they would carry the same core idea as the Louis Vuitton collection. Maybe Jacobs' decision to focus on his namesake label was the right move - I imagine even greater things will come out of this renowned focus. Whatever it is, I'll be looking forward to it.

And Ghesquière.  Although his departure left me grappling, it opened up the opportunity for Alexander Wang, a fresh, young designer with immense potential, to take the job of his life. Now that I've seen Ghesquière's first collection for Louis Vuitton, I am confident this whirlwind of fashion musical chairs has left us with three brilliant winners.

The instant I saw the first look coming out, with its A-line leather coat, turtleneck dress and knee-high boots, I knew this was going to be a solid collection.  The mix of textures was exhilarating, and the level of innovation astonishing.  Nicole Phelps of Style.com describes it perfectly: "the show's predominant silhouette...cued a 1960s vibe, [but] the workmanship was 21st-century state of the art." New and old. Oh, Ghesquière, you sure know how to do it.

The amazing innovation came in the form of double-handle style handbags...that only had one handle, knit skirts cut with swirling feathers, and dresses decorated with what looked like the fuzzy magnetic iron we used to play with in school.  This innovation, while a key element of Louis Vuitton's brand, is Ghesquière's specialty.  There were slight murmurs of Balenciaga throughout the show, but Ghesquière respectfully moulded his design aesthetic to suit the Louis Vuitton framework - and to great success.

 
I'm so happy to be able to witness another era at Louis Vuitton, and can't wait to redefine what I see as Louis Vuitton's DNA.  This has been the most successful designer changeover of the past few years, with Ghesquière taking Louis Vuitton in a new, exciting direction.  And suddenly, everything feels so right again.

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Vogue.com

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2014 RTW

Recap: At first, it took a while to settle in, but once it did, realization came in floods. The set. Marc Jacobs' set for Louis Vuitton. It was a walk down memory lane!  There was the fountain from Fall/Winter 2010, the elevators from Fall/Winter 2011, the carousel from Spring/Summer 2012, the clock from Fall/Winter 2012, the escalators from Spring/Summer 2013, the hotel doors from Fall/Winter 2013, the print from LV's collaboration with Stephen Sprouse...but wait, it was dark; it was all dark.  This was not a collection of celebration, but a collection of mourning - mourning the departure of one of our most influential designers from one of the world's most influential labels.  The clothes themselves reflected Louis Vuitton's past 16 years with Jacobs: a mix of extravagance, and street fashion.  There were barely-there, sheer bodysuits and baggy, oversized pantsuits; grungy motercycle boots on the bottom and over-the-top ostrich plume headpieces on top; ornate jackets dripping (literally) with jet black crystals and slouchy denim pants rolled at the ankles.  Even before Jacobs walked out for his final bow, the audience was standing in preparation for an ovation.  And as he headed backstage, something happened that I have never before witnessed at a fashion show: the audience stalled for a couple of seconds before getting out of their seats.  Usually audience members are eager to run out to their next show, but this time, the audience lingered, trying to absorb the final, fading moments of Jacobs' overwhelming legacy.

Verdict:  If anything, this was an emotional collection.  It played at your heartstrings.  As each reference to past collections revealed themselves to me, I could feel the tears pushing at the back of my eyes.  The grand scale of the show brought shivers to my arms, and at times, I could do nothing but exhale in exhaustion from the formidable, almost emotionally draining collection.  Farewell, Marc Jacobs.  You will be mourned. 

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Fall/Winter 2013 RTW

It's time to accept I need to make some changes to the way I do my Fashion Week Marathons, which obviously haven't been happening at all. I can't do justice to collections without proper comprehensive reviews, yet at the same time, I have so little time to allot to blogging now that I rather condense my thoughts than not get my thoughts out at all (I would burst without somewhere to vent my opinions, so thank you Red-Soled Fashionista for saving me from fashion angst). As you can see, I've also changed up the design of my blog a little. You might recall I said that I've always cared more about the content of my blog than its design, and trust me, that hasn't changed! But now that I've acquired Photoshop skills that I didn't have two years ago, it's time for my blog to reflect my growth. So here's another way I'm reflecting the change in my lifestyle: my Fall/Winter 2013 RTW summary. I'm forgoing the naive years when I typed out detailed collection reviews, and sharing with you my quick thoughts on standout collections:

Givenchy

Bambi at Givenchy, ladies and gents. I love it.  I don't generally squeal like a little girl over cute cartoons, but this is different. Bambi grunge is how the cool girls do it.  Beyond the Bambi print, it was really the oversized sweater and sheer skirt combos that I found to be so appealing. Give me any of the sweaters from the collection, seriously, any!  This collection was rich with textures and prints, and the deconstructed peplums kicked the prim and proper ones of yester-season out of the spotlight. The last time I fell for a RTW collection from Givenchy was Spring/Summer 2012, so this collection is very exciting. Judging from the loud cheers from the audience, I think they would agree.

Watch the full show here.

Balenciaga

I, among many others, was quite anxious to see what the newly appointed Alexander Wang would make of Balenciaga. Now that I've seen his first collection, however, I am slightly less enthused. The overall silhouettes were simple and underwhelming, but don't get me wrong, I do see potential. The construction was impressive, with pinched shoulders and "unzipped" backs that looked as if they might slip right off, but at the same time, were extremely sturdy. For the arbiter of New York street fashion to suddenly take the reins of a prestigious couture house takes time. I applaud Wang for showing us his versatility - his ability to rise up to changing expectations - for I didn't catch much of his own aesthetic in these clothes. I believe he will adapt to the Balenciaga brand, and once he does, he will experiment to great effect.

Watch the full show here.

Louis Vuitton

It took me a while to get into this collection, but looking back, I appreciate it so much. This collection was rich with undertones, so excuse me if I ramble on in awe. Firstly, the silky slips peeping out from mannish coats - the sexual tension could not be more palpable. It wasn't tacky in any way though; this was a woman of composure, stalking the streets with her supple leather bags and hems lightly dusted with sequins. But at the same time, this was not a woman of complete power. There was a hint of shame as she walked the streets of night back home. What happened, we wonder, behind those closed hotel doors? Her face was void of light, and even the music, however beautiful, was disconcerting. This was Marc Jacob's most provocative show yet, despite its muted demeanor. Luckily, Jacobs drew us from our melancholy contemplation by taking a bow in a set of red pajamas. The message of the show: our most intimate moments.

Watch the full show here.

Oscar de la Renta

So many things to touch on in this collection! My first thoughts as the show started actually had nothing to do with the clothes. It was "Oh my gosh, it's Jeanne Beker front row!", then "Ah, there's Bill Cunningham across from her! Aww he's smiling."  And then I noticed what they were both smiling at: a turquoise bar jacket ensemble. Wait, did I say bar jacket?  Yes, because guess who was backstage?  None other than John Galliano, who Oscar de la Renta invited last month to be a designer-in-residence. We assume he pitched into this collection, as there were definitely hints of signature Galliano. If we focus on just de la Renta for a second, I would like to say that this collection was a complete relief for me. For the past couple of seasons, de la Renta has unsuccessfully tried to appeal to a younger market with messy modifications to his otherwise clean design talent. This season, it was finally back to what de la Renta does best. Now if we focus on Galliano, I could almost cry. I've been so deprived of Galliano's designing that this collection is like a gem to me. However, if we take de la Renta and Galliano together, the collection ultimately becomes a slightly confusing, disjointed compilation. But under the circumstances, I can let that pass.

Watch the full show here.

Marchesa

Marchesa used to be one of the collections I most looked forward to. Every look used to be so flawless and stunning that I even dreamed of wearing a Marchesa dress to grad. I adored their romantic touches, exquisite construction, and at times, hauntingly ethereal dresses. Nonetheless, lately, Marchesa has taken a turn for the worse. Ever since Spring/Summer 2012, when Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig ditched their beautiful fashion presentations for runway shows, their designs have strangely also gone in decline. Spring 2012 and Fall 2012 were still quite striking, even if less intriguing. In Spring 2013, the decline was more obvious - an unappealing attempt at mashing all the decorations of India into short dresses and pants (pants at Marchesa??), or exaggerating their opulence into Hollywood gowns. And here we are a Fall 2013, where the draping has gone haywire, bunching at the most unflattering of places. The construction is messy, and all I can do is describe this collection in one word: wrinkled. There was at most a total of three good looks - much fewer than there used to be.

See the entire collection here.


That is surprisingly all for now! There are a large number of shows this season that aren't posted on Youtube in HD, and I never watch clips unless it covers the full show and it's in good quality. Otherwise, you fail to get a solid understanding of the collection, and you end up missing out on a lot of fascinating details if a blurry model walks past you at 360p or 480p. Marchesa is obviously the exception here, as I couldn't help but say something about the collection. More to come if I find myself itching to become vocal again about Fall/Winter 2013, and as always, I welcome any requests for collection reviews!

Image Source: Style.com

Spring/Summer 2013 RTW

I have a confession to make: I don't have enough time to do a single comprehensive review of a Spring/Summer 2013 RTW collection.  Ok, so that's not really much of a surprising confession, considering how consistent my blog has become lately, but I thought I should let you know.  Ironically enough, I have managed to keep fairly updated with the collections this season, seeing as it's all part of my job as VP Communications at the Fashion & Lifestyle Society (a club at my school) to be in the loop.  So although I won't be doing full reviews, I refuse to let all the opinions I have about the Spring collections go unvoiced.  I never imagined my reviews would get to be so abbreviated, but on the plus side, they might become a bit of an easier (and potentially more interesting) read for you:

Alexander Wang

Verdict: After Fall/Winter 2011, when I finally understood his coolness, I've continued to love what Wang comes up with.  Wang does not produce clothing that you would immediately label as beautiful, and that's exactly what keeps him going.  His clothes require time to soak in, but once they do, there's only one word for what he does: cool.  Threads holding shredded garments together produces a wonderful excerise on deconstruction, and those shoes, oh those shoes.  Full show here.

Burberry Prorsum

Verdict: Hands down one of my favourite collections this season.  The colours were bombastic, with metallics ruched and wrapped, and one standout blue ombre, fantasically cut coccon coat.  Severely cropped jackets gave the collection a youthful edge, as if the colours themselves weren't enough.  I adored the men's metallic cardigans, which literally left me with my mouth hanging.  But I truly loved the mix of textures: lace, embellishment and a peacock trenchcoat for goodness sake.  Bravo to Christopher Bailey for a beautiful collection presented in an equally beautiful fashion.  Full show here.

Dries van Noten

Verdict: Another one of my favourite collections.  I have never seen casual chic done so perfectly.  It's a very literal interpretation of casual chic - plaid tops done in silk and paired with embellished skirts - but that's why it's so amazingly uncanny.  Dressing casual all of a sudden looked so classy.  Van Noten made elastic waistband pajama pants look good, and I think that alone is enough to make this collection a hit.  Full show here.

Prada

Verdict: WHAT just happened.  I'm not even sure I want to know what happened, seeing as it was a mess.  Maybe the Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations hype gave me high expectations, but I've always liked what Prada has done these past few years, no matter how strange.  This season, I just don't get it.  If there's anyone who can appreciate the most outré shoes, I'm the one.  Yet I could not bring myself to appreciate Prada's foil wrapped, ridiculously stacked feet.  And the clothes were great in construction, but completely lacking in imagination.  It was a procession of the same, strictly cut piece of fabric glued onto the body, with a couple of quickly tiring repetitive prints.  As for the soundtrack...I'll just let you figure that one out.  Good thing Prada redeemed herself during Miu Miu.  Full show here.

Balenciaga

Verdict: I've always appreciated Balenciaga - it's one of the most technologically innovative brands out there - but it always required several analyses before I could see its ingenuity.  However, this season, I got it straight away.  The stiff yet undulating frills, revealing its coloured underside with each step, and the flippant barbed wire skirts made a wonderful statement on structure and movement.  I finally understand, Nicolas Ghesquière, I finally understand!  Full show here.

Dolce & Gabbana

Verdict: That's it.  Enough.  I have been seeing the same thing for the past 2 years.  It's sexy and pretty, but it's just been a reworking of the same Italian inspiration.  The raffia basket corsets and skirts were definitely highlights, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the idea of "still looking good in a potato sack" quite literally.  But other than those two unique bits, the pair were still so obviously stuck in Sicily.  Time to get out.  Full show here.

Chanel

Verdict: It's very difficult to say that a Chanel collection is not successful, because Karl Lagerfeld has this ability to make everything seem so right, even though it may not appeal to you personally.  And that's the kind of relationship I've had with Lagerfeld's work.  Throughout the years, there have only been three collections I can say I loved.  While this collection still didn't resonate that deeply with me, it's among the ones I would consider to be more obviously well-done.  The massive pearls, cropped jackets (a trend, anyone?), and the florals at the end felt like a refreshing step for Chanel.  Not to mention the crazy innovative hula hoop bags and vinyl sun hats.  Full show here.

Christian Dior

Verdict: No, I'm still not entirely sold on Raf Simons at Dior, but I am beginning to accept that Dior is in a new era and perhaps this minimalism is what it needs.  I loved what Simons did with the set, but the clothes were yet again lacking for me.  Although the metallics, floals and intricate constructions were mesmerizing, I didn't feel the excitement that I used to indulge in so selfishly.  Some looks were still too bland (and the models...no theatricality whatsoever) and I almost fell out of my seat at seeing black short shorts at Dior.  With Simons, I feel like either the top or bottom half of a look is always missing; it's empty.  Nonetheless, as I said, I'm willing to accept this new vision.  I only mourn the loss of being transported to another land, and most importantly, I mourn the loss of fun.  Full show here.

Alexander McQueen

Verdict: Props to Sarah Burton for exploring a different aspect of McQueen this season.  This season was significantly grittier and more natural.  Burton has always referenced nature, but usually in a fantastical, surreal way.  This season, it was pure nature in all its beauty and flaws.  Her inspiration was quite obviously bees and everything to do with them.  The head pieces that hid each model's face gave a monotony to the show that well reflects the life of a bee, but also looked like something McQueen himself would have done.  This collection isn't one of those instant successes, but it'll get more people keeping an eye on her.  Full show here.

Saint Laurent

Verdict: Ok, so I'm entirely torn on this collection by *ahem* Saint Laurent (will I ever get used to not saying Yves?).  On one hand, I loved it for its no nonense wearability.  These clothes were gorgeous and I would wear each look exactly as it is.  The sleek bow blouses with blazers and slim pants were nicely contrasted with the fluid, billowing capes of the second half, all done up glamorously with sequins and mousselines.  But on the other hand, I know deep down YSL would never be this obvious.  He would never make glamour look so outright glamorous.  As much as I like what Hedi Slimane has done, perhaps he isn't doing it right for the brand.  I can't say I love this, and I can't say I dislike it, so let me just leave it up to you.  Full show here.

Louis Vuitton

Verdict: Spring/Summer 2012 made me realize how much I like the drop waisted Roaring Twenties, and this season, Marc Jacobs makes me realize how much I like the mini skirted Swinging Sixties.  There's something so adorable yet so womanly about the sixties minidress.  This was probably the shortest LV show we've ever seen, with models paired up and decked out in huge, graphic checks, but it was no less impactful.  I felt like I was on a drug high (not that I would actually know what that feels like) and drifting through a loopy, rainbow world.  Bold and in your face, LV makes a great statement this season.  Full show here.

That's all I have for now in terms of the big names.  I might comment further on other collections as I go through them, but as always, I love posting about any collections you have to suggest!

Image Source: Style.com

A Sunny Disposition

While waiting to pick up the Louis Vuitton bag I posted about earlier, I had time to look around the store.  I don't often pay attention to accessories, but I'm glad I did!  The Louis Vuitton Lily caught my eye because of its unique flower detailing on the side:

I tried it on, and I was surprised at how feminine yet glamorous it was. I looked ready to step into one of those glam Michael Kors ads! Currently, I own a more classic pair of Coach Chelsea sunglasses:

They obviously lack the beachy glamour of the LVs, but are sweet and more fitting during the winter (yes, you should still wear sunglasses on those sunny winter days!). What do you prefer?  Glamour, classic sophistication, both, or something different altogether?

Image Source: Louis Vuitton, Coach

Louis Vuitton Beauté

Headed over to Holt Renfrew again today to help a friend pick up her Louis Vuitton bag.  Having gone just last week, you can imagine my surprise when I walked in to see the entire store transformed for the holidays.  A pianist was playing Christmas songs, mannequins were draped in Lanvin, Christmas decorations adorned the entire store, and apple cider was being served by a girl in a stunning party dress.  The atmosphere was alive and joyful, and I felt like a child on Christmas Eve.  Boy, do I ever love going to Holt Renfrew.

But anyway, back to the bag.  What I have for you this time is the Louis Vuitton Beauté.  It has a textured monogram with a calfskin leather flap:

However luxurious the materials, this bag is just not catching my fancy.  While the hardware is quite nice (there's a lock underneath the flap, and the keys are inside that pouch in the front), I don't find the textured monogram in this case to be very attractive.  What do you think?

Image Source: Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 RTW

I was almost blinded by Louis Vuitton's collection for Spring/Summer 2011.  Good thing I wasn't, or else I would have missed indulging in the sparkly, shiny pieces that obviously had an oriental influence.  Although a tiny bit of me wanted Marc Jacobs to produce another ladylike collection, I knew he wouldn't.  But what he did do was just as exciting.  The first part of the show consisted of Chinese dresses, suits and coats (complete with fans):

Then the oriental influence was toned down, and a myriad of bright and deep, sensual colour came out.  As you'll see, everything had a slight shimmer or shine to it.

Almost seamlessly, without me even noticing, Marc started mirroring the three tigers that he placed at the back of the runway.

There was even a panda thrown in for that bit of Jacobs humour, but which also reminded us of the oriental influence from the beginning:

Marc Jacobs is not known for sticking to one idea, and it showed in this collection.  This collection was a complete 180 from his ladylike Fall collection, and his Fall collection was a complete 180 from his sporty Spring 2010 collection.  Then again...not really, because that would make 360, and this collection was nothing like the collection for last spring.  Marc has forced the mathematicians of the world to refine the definition of a circle, and if you ask me, that's talent.

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Louis Vuitton Cuir Cinéma Intrigue

I'm jumping back and forth between Spring and Winter, but Louis Vuitton's Cuir Cinéma Intrigue is worth mentioning. Ever since I saw this bag in LV's ad campaign, I've counted down the days until I would finally be able to see it in real-life.

The coming together of three beautiful supermodels: Christy Turlington, Karen Elson and Natalia Vodianova dressed in LV's ladylike collection is probably another reason this bag stands out to me. Made in the iconic structure of a doctor bag, the LV Intrigue evokes 1950's glamour. With no logo to be seen except for on the bottom corner, this bag is perfect for anyone who just wants a timeless classic. Crafted from natural calf-skin leather, the LV Intrigue is going to set you back $4370. Intriguing, but I'll admire it from afar.


Image Source: Louis Vuitton