I have a confession to make: I don't have enough time to do a single comprehensive review of a Spring/Summer 2013 RTW collection. Ok, so that's not really much of a surprising confession, considering how consistent my blog has become lately, but I thought I should let you know. Ironically enough, I have managed to keep fairly updated with the collections this season, seeing as it's all part of my job as VP Communications at the Fashion & Lifestyle Society (a club at my school) to be in the loop. So although I won't be doing full reviews, I refuse to let all the opinions I have about the Spring collections go unvoiced. I never imagined my reviews would get to be so abbreviated, but on the plus side, they might become a bit of an easier (and potentially more interesting) read for you:
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang
Verdict: After Fall/Winter 2011, when I finally understood his coolness, I've continued to love what Wang comes up with. Wang does not produce clothing that you would immediately label as beautiful, and that's exactly what keeps him going. His clothes require time to soak in, but once they do, there's only one word for what he does: cool. Threads holding shredded garments together produces a wonderful excerise on deconstruction, and those shoes, oh those shoes. Full show here.
Burberry Prorsum
Verdict: Hands down one of my favourite collections this season. The colours were bombastic, with metallics ruched and wrapped, and one standout blue ombre, fantasically cut coccon coat. Severely cropped jackets gave the collection a youthful edge, as if the colours themselves weren't enough. I adored the men's metallic cardigans, which literally left me with my mouth hanging. But I truly loved the mix of textures: lace, embellishment and a peacock trenchcoat for goodness sake. Bravo to Christopher Bailey for a beautiful collection presented in an equally beautiful fashion. Full show here.
Dries van Noten
Verdict: Another one of my favourite collections. I have never seen casual chic done so perfectly. It's a very literal interpretation of casual chic - plaid tops done in silk and paired with embellished skirts - but that's why it's so amazingly uncanny. Dressing casual all of a sudden looked so classy. Van Noten made elastic waistband pajama pants look good, and I think that alone is enough to make this collection a hit. Full show here.
Prada
Verdict: WHAT just happened. I'm not even sure I want to know what happened, seeing as it was a mess. Maybe the Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations hype gave me high expectations, but I've always liked what Prada has done these past few years, no matter how strange. This season, I just don't get it. If there's anyone who can appreciate the most outré shoes, I'm the one. Yet I could not bring myself to appreciate Prada's foil wrapped, ridiculously stacked feet. And the clothes were great in construction, but completely lacking in imagination. It was a procession of the same, strictly cut piece of fabric glued onto the body, with a couple of quickly tiring repetitive prints. As for the soundtrack...I'll just let you figure that one out. Good thing Prada redeemed herself during Miu Miu. Full show here.
Balenciaga
Verdict: I've always appreciated Balenciaga - it's one of the most technologically innovative brands out there - but it always required several analyses before I could see its ingenuity. However, this season, I got it straight away. The stiff yet undulating frills, revealing its coloured underside with each step, and the flippant barbed wire skirts made a wonderful statement on structure and movement. I finally understand, Nicolas Ghesquière, I finally understand! Full show here.
Dolce & Gabbana
Verdict: That's it. Enough. I have been seeing the same thing for the past 2 years. It's sexy and pretty, but it's just been a reworking of the same Italian inspiration. The raffia basket corsets and skirts were definitely highlights, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the idea of "still looking good in a potato sack" quite literally. But other than those two unique bits, the pair were still so obviously stuck in Sicily. Time to get out. Full show here.
Chanel
Verdict: It's very difficult to say that a Chanel collection is not successful, because Karl Lagerfeld has this ability to make everything seem so right, even though it may not appeal to you personally. And that's the kind of relationship I've had with Lagerfeld's work. Throughout the years, there have only been three collections I can say I loved. While this collection still didn't resonate that deeply with me, it's among the ones I would consider to be more obviously well-done. The massive pearls, cropped jackets (a trend, anyone?), and the florals at the end felt like a refreshing step for Chanel. Not to mention the crazy innovative hula hoop bags and vinyl sun hats. Full show here.
Christian Dior
Verdict: No, I'm still not entirely sold on Raf Simons at Dior, but I am beginning to accept that Dior is in a new era and perhaps this minimalism is what it needs. I loved what Simons did with the set, but the clothes were yet again lacking for me. Although the metallics, floals and intricate constructions were mesmerizing, I didn't feel the excitement that I used to indulge in so selfishly. Some looks were still too bland (and the models...no theatricality whatsoever) and I almost fell out of my seat at seeing black short shorts at Dior. With Simons, I feel like either the top or bottom half of a look is always missing; it's empty. Nonetheless, as I said, I'm willing to accept this new vision. I only mourn the loss of being transported to another land, and most importantly, I mourn the loss of fun. Full show here.
Alexander McQueen
Verdict: Props to Sarah Burton for exploring a different aspect of McQueen this season. This season was significantly grittier and more natural. Burton has always referenced nature, but usually in a fantastical, surreal way. This season, it was pure nature in all its beauty and flaws. Her inspiration was quite obviously bees and everything to do with them. The head pieces that hid each model's face gave a monotony to the show that well reflects the life of a bee, but also looked like something McQueen himself would have done. This collection isn't one of those instant successes, but it'll get more people keeping an eye on her. Full show here.
Saint Laurent
Verdict: Ok, so I'm entirely torn on this collection by *ahem* Saint Laurent (will I ever get used to not saying Yves?). On one hand, I loved it for its no nonense wearability. These clothes were gorgeous and I would wear each look exactly as it is. The sleek bow blouses with blazers and slim pants were nicely contrasted with the fluid, billowing capes of the second half, all done up glamorously with sequins and mousselines. But on the other hand, I know deep down YSL would never be this obvious. He would never make glamour look so outright glamorous. As much as I like what Hedi Slimane has done, perhaps he isn't doing it right for the brand. I can't say I love this, and I can't say I dislike it, so let me just leave it up to you. Full show here.
Louis Vuitton
Verdict: Spring/Summer 2012 made me realize how much I like the drop waisted Roaring Twenties, and this season, Marc Jacobs makes me realize how much I like the mini skirted Swinging Sixties. There's something so adorable yet so womanly about the sixties minidress. This was probably the shortest LV show we've ever seen, with models paired up and decked out in huge, graphic checks, but it was no less impactful. I felt like I was on a drug high (not that I would actually know what that feels like) and drifting through a loopy, rainbow world. Bold and in your face, LV makes a great statement this season. Full show here.
That's all I have for now in terms of the big names. I might comment further on other collections as I go through them, but as always, I love posting about any collections you have to suggest!
Image Source: Style.com
Chanel
Christian Dior
Alexander McQueen
Saint Laurent
Louis Vuitton
That's all I have for now in terms of the big names. I might comment further on other collections as I go through them, but as always, I love posting about any collections you have to suggest!
Image Source: Style.com
