A Return to Runway

I'm ashamed to say it's been over two years since I've blogged about runway. Can you believe I used to have a series called Fashion Week Marathon, where I blogged daily about the latest collections of the season? Sure, the time I had dedicated to doing my homework took a hit, but I was secretly proud of my ability to take one look at a clothing item and make an educated guess -- if not actually identify -- which brand and season it came from. I remember back in school, whenever we had free time in the computer lab, I would pull up YouTube and start catching up on runway shows. I owe so much of what I know today to the hours upon hours spent watching shows and reading Style.com reviews.

Nowadays, between doing adult things (whatever adult things it is adults are supposed to do), trying to do more and be more in life (deep, I know), and watching an unhealthy amount of BTS (Jimin is my bias), runway has regretfully done a catwalk into the back burner. However, I still try to keep up with the fashion world in stolen moments, and am thankful I have not yet lost my instinct for noteworthy collections. I know when a collection really speaks to me through gut feeling: I get goosebumps, my heart rate elevates, and I get lost in rapturous reverie. So to share some of my euphoric bliss with you, here are the collections that have me smiling as of late:


Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2019 RTW

I debated whether I should save the best for last or hit you upfront with the most splendid of shows. Ultimately, I decided Ralph Lauren's newest collection was far too refreshing to risk leaving until the end. With a palette of only three colours -- black, white and gold -- Lauren had a tightly edited and succinct message: elegance never goes out of style. Cuts were at times roomy yet always refined. Wide-legged trousers were nipped tightly by pristine gold belts, and swishy knee-length skirts were finished off with precise t-strap heels. As much as I appreciate the sardonic streetwear heralded by younger designers, it was a breath of fresh air to once again see clothing made for the grown up, no-nonsense woman. But demure she is not. There were sharp shoulders, sophisticated blazers and even a billowing gold cape to round out the show, reminding us that just because a woman dresses simply does not mean she is without strength.


Fendi Fall/Winter 2019 RTW

Even before the inimitable Karl Lagerfeld passed away, I had developed a recent appreciation for Fendi. Fendi has always been one of those staple brands in fashion, but for many years after the release of its peekaboo handbag, I wondered if it really had anything new to say -- particularly as a brand known for fur in a society that is increasingly against it. My question was answered when I saw the debut of its new logo: a powerfully simple yet humorous emblem that didn't replace the quintessential double-F, but rather complemented it to attract a younger audience. Fendi also played so well into street culture's obsession with logomania that I saw it climbing its way back to relevancy. And yet despite having fun with fashion's fleeting fancies, Fendi has remained grounded in its foundation of ladylike clothing. The transparent vinyl raincoats with tan leather trimmings from Spring/Summer 2019 RTW blew me away, and I was rendered weak in the knees by the romanticism of fluttering scarves tied back between the belt loops of dresses and coats in this Fall/Winter collection. For a brand that has embraced the irony of obnoxious monogram print, I am impressed with how it still manages to speak with sophistication.


Chanel Fall/Winter 2018 RTW

Naturally, I can't talk about Fendi without bringing up Chanel. Lagerfeld was always immensely consistent with his visual messaging for Chanel, but his Fall/Winter 2018 RTW collection made me take notice. The warm autumnal vibes of sheer black nylons (oh, those legs!) worn under knit dresses and knee high boots brought back memories of how I used to dress in high school when the temperatures dropped. It may be a slightly dated, girlish look, but it still feels so comfortingly familiar. I guess I am finally getting old enough to experience nostalgia for styles of the past. This collection was akin to being wrapped up in a cozy blanket -- a sentiment made all the more poignant knowing this was among Lagerfeld's final few collections for the brand.


Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2019 RTW

Of many runway moments seared into my memory is an especially vivid image of Ralph Lauren's Spring/Summer 2015 RTW waterfall necklaces, which were so excessive they practically became breastplates of glimmering jewels. When I saw Christopher Kane's interpretation of those necklaces in gems the size of rocks strung vertically across the chest or suspended in the middle like Iron Man, I immediately felt a frisson of connection. The tongue-in-cheek glamour granted a subversive power to the high-octane dressing. I find Kane to be masterful at pinpointing singular details that will steal the show. For example, I still salivate over the embellished cold shoulder cutout from Spring/Summer 2014 RTW, or the mildly kinky transparent PVC patches laced with crystals from Fall/Winter 2019 RTW -- simple creative manipulations that transform the existing into the exceptional.


Balmain Spring 2019 Couture

Ladies and gentlemen, Balmain is back in couture -- and what a ball it was! Literally. Massive orbs adorned wrists as cuff bracelets, were held in hand like clutch bags, and even worn as futuristic, globular skirts. Why, you ask? I have not the slightest clue, but it doesn't quite matter because the theme is magnificently memorable. Olivier Rousteing's couture debut for Balmain was far from inconspicuous and very deliberate. In a collection that would have otherwise emulated the typical image of couture as a frothy, feminine fantasy, Rousteing infused modern bite with rigid architectural shapes, spray-painted stencil patterns, and encrusted acid-wash denim. The interplay of luxurious textiles in pastel shades with peculiar and exaggerated forms resulted in a collection that was as beautiful as it was bewildering -- a reminder that even pearls come nestled in the gnarly flesh of an oyster. Balmain is off to a good start!


Iris van Herpen Fall 2018 Couture

Truthfully, I could feature any one of Iris van Herpen's latest collections, but it was Fall 2018 Couture when I first took notice of her. What a shame I didn't start following her sooner! Van Herpen is one of those inventive designers who continually challenges the notion of what fashion can be. She is a visionary exploring what I like to call the galactic anatomy of movement. Her work is technically brilliant (read: hand-casted transparent polyurethane hand-painted through injection molding, or two-tone dyed organza heat-bonded to laser-cut Mylar and cotton), and oftentimes takes shape in rippling gills of diaphanous fabric, shifting pleats that refract the light around it, and structured yet overwhelmingly delicate vertebrae. I am constantly floored by the gentle, probing beauty she births from her very scientific means. Watching Van Herpen is like a deeply intellectual and spiritual encounter where one witnesses an otherworldly intersection of the biological, the technological and the celestial.

Image Source: Vogue.com

Merci, Couture

For those who don't understand couture, perhaps these videos can help explain it.











When a creation comes down the runway, we tend to forget that each piece has a backstory. We may look at the garments in isolation, forgetting that every detail has been thought through and laboured over for hours upon hours. Remember, that which looks most effortless is that which actually requires the most skill. Behind every petal, every bead, every stitch is a team of specialists extremely good at what they do. And they do it with utmost love and care. Couture is beautiful not simply because of how it looks, but because of the people who bring it to life.

Thank you, Karl Lagerfeld, for always honouring the expertise of those whose passion remains unmatched - those whose savior faire brings a touch of fantasy to the everyday.

Thank you, couture, for showing us that even in an industry so hurried and rushed, there is magic in moments of devotion.

Chanel Fall/Winter 2014 RTW

Recap: Luxury shopping at its most mundane. Only Karl Lagerfeld could get away with creating an entire collection around l'epicerie chic - complete with sneakers - and send it down the runway of one of fashion's most upscale labels.  Its comment on consumerism aside, this is a show surrounded by humour, fun, and utmost creativity.  Shopping baskets made with Chanel's signature chains, 2.55s redesigned to resemble packaged meat, and purses in the shape of egg cartons.  But it didn't stop there.  As models went about their quotidian shopping, they had the option of buying items 20 or 50 percent higher (darling, Chanel doesn't do discounts), sacs poubelles renamed as sacs plus belles, and a gold chainsaw made with Chanel chains.  As for the fashion, highlights included pieces with childish geometric print, sweaters with perfect slouchy turtlenecks and a splatter of colourful embellishment, tweed coats with built-in bustiers, and pieces with cutouts resembling a shopping basket.

Verdict: Humour in fashion is something critics often refuse to acknowledge. While this collection is more kitschy and possibly against Chanel's image of elegance, the label is also known for its comfort.  Karl brings this concept of comfort into modern day by poking fun at the most amusing runway of all: grocery aisles (Walmart fashion, anyone?). True, Karl could send practically anything down the runway and we'd lap it up and smother it with praise, but hey, he isn't Kaiser Karl for nothing.  He can take risks.  He reminds us that fashion can only ever be one-dimensional without humour and creativity, and that it should never be taken too seriously.

Watch the full show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Spring/Summer 2013 RTW

I have a confession to make: I don't have enough time to do a single comprehensive review of a Spring/Summer 2013 RTW collection.  Ok, so that's not really much of a surprising confession, considering how consistent my blog has become lately, but I thought I should let you know.  Ironically enough, I have managed to keep fairly updated with the collections this season, seeing as it's all part of my job as VP Communications at the Fashion & Lifestyle Society (a club at my school) to be in the loop.  So although I won't be doing full reviews, I refuse to let all the opinions I have about the Spring collections go unvoiced.  I never imagined my reviews would get to be so abbreviated, but on the plus side, they might become a bit of an easier (and potentially more interesting) read for you:

Alexander Wang

Verdict: After Fall/Winter 2011, when I finally understood his coolness, I've continued to love what Wang comes up with.  Wang does not produce clothing that you would immediately label as beautiful, and that's exactly what keeps him going.  His clothes require time to soak in, but once they do, there's only one word for what he does: cool.  Threads holding shredded garments together produces a wonderful excerise on deconstruction, and those shoes, oh those shoes.  Full show here.

Burberry Prorsum

Verdict: Hands down one of my favourite collections this season.  The colours were bombastic, with metallics ruched and wrapped, and one standout blue ombre, fantasically cut coccon coat.  Severely cropped jackets gave the collection a youthful edge, as if the colours themselves weren't enough.  I adored the men's metallic cardigans, which literally left me with my mouth hanging.  But I truly loved the mix of textures: lace, embellishment and a peacock trenchcoat for goodness sake.  Bravo to Christopher Bailey for a beautiful collection presented in an equally beautiful fashion.  Full show here.

Dries van Noten

Verdict: Another one of my favourite collections.  I have never seen casual chic done so perfectly.  It's a very literal interpretation of casual chic - plaid tops done in silk and paired with embellished skirts - but that's why it's so amazingly uncanny.  Dressing casual all of a sudden looked so classy.  Van Noten made elastic waistband pajama pants look good, and I think that alone is enough to make this collection a hit.  Full show here.

Prada

Verdict: WHAT just happened.  I'm not even sure I want to know what happened, seeing as it was a mess.  Maybe the Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations hype gave me high expectations, but I've always liked what Prada has done these past few years, no matter how strange.  This season, I just don't get it.  If there's anyone who can appreciate the most outré shoes, I'm the one.  Yet I could not bring myself to appreciate Prada's foil wrapped, ridiculously stacked feet.  And the clothes were great in construction, but completely lacking in imagination.  It was a procession of the same, strictly cut piece of fabric glued onto the body, with a couple of quickly tiring repetitive prints.  As for the soundtrack...I'll just let you figure that one out.  Good thing Prada redeemed herself during Miu Miu.  Full show here.

Balenciaga

Verdict: I've always appreciated Balenciaga - it's one of the most technologically innovative brands out there - but it always required several analyses before I could see its ingenuity.  However, this season, I got it straight away.  The stiff yet undulating frills, revealing its coloured underside with each step, and the flippant barbed wire skirts made a wonderful statement on structure and movement.  I finally understand, Nicolas Ghesquière, I finally understand!  Full show here.

Dolce & Gabbana

Verdict: That's it.  Enough.  I have been seeing the same thing for the past 2 years.  It's sexy and pretty, but it's just been a reworking of the same Italian inspiration.  The raffia basket corsets and skirts were definitely highlights, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took the idea of "still looking good in a potato sack" quite literally.  But other than those two unique bits, the pair were still so obviously stuck in Sicily.  Time to get out.  Full show here.

Chanel

Verdict: It's very difficult to say that a Chanel collection is not successful, because Karl Lagerfeld has this ability to make everything seem so right, even though it may not appeal to you personally.  And that's the kind of relationship I've had with Lagerfeld's work.  Throughout the years, there have only been three collections I can say I loved.  While this collection still didn't resonate that deeply with me, it's among the ones I would consider to be more obviously well-done.  The massive pearls, cropped jackets (a trend, anyone?), and the florals at the end felt like a refreshing step for Chanel.  Not to mention the crazy innovative hula hoop bags and vinyl sun hats.  Full show here.

Christian Dior

Verdict: No, I'm still not entirely sold on Raf Simons at Dior, but I am beginning to accept that Dior is in a new era and perhaps this minimalism is what it needs.  I loved what Simons did with the set, but the clothes were yet again lacking for me.  Although the metallics, floals and intricate constructions were mesmerizing, I didn't feel the excitement that I used to indulge in so selfishly.  Some looks were still too bland (and the models...no theatricality whatsoever) and I almost fell out of my seat at seeing black short shorts at Dior.  With Simons, I feel like either the top or bottom half of a look is always missing; it's empty.  Nonetheless, as I said, I'm willing to accept this new vision.  I only mourn the loss of being transported to another land, and most importantly, I mourn the loss of fun.  Full show here.

Alexander McQueen

Verdict: Props to Sarah Burton for exploring a different aspect of McQueen this season.  This season was significantly grittier and more natural.  Burton has always referenced nature, but usually in a fantastical, surreal way.  This season, it was pure nature in all its beauty and flaws.  Her inspiration was quite obviously bees and everything to do with them.  The head pieces that hid each model's face gave a monotony to the show that well reflects the life of a bee, but also looked like something McQueen himself would have done.  This collection isn't one of those instant successes, but it'll get more people keeping an eye on her.  Full show here.

Saint Laurent

Verdict: Ok, so I'm entirely torn on this collection by *ahem* Saint Laurent (will I ever get used to not saying Yves?).  On one hand, I loved it for its no nonense wearability.  These clothes were gorgeous and I would wear each look exactly as it is.  The sleek bow blouses with blazers and slim pants were nicely contrasted with the fluid, billowing capes of the second half, all done up glamorously with sequins and mousselines.  But on the other hand, I know deep down YSL would never be this obvious.  He would never make glamour look so outright glamorous.  As much as I like what Hedi Slimane has done, perhaps he isn't doing it right for the brand.  I can't say I love this, and I can't say I dislike it, so let me just leave it up to you.  Full show here.

Louis Vuitton

Verdict: Spring/Summer 2012 made me realize how much I like the drop waisted Roaring Twenties, and this season, Marc Jacobs makes me realize how much I like the mini skirted Swinging Sixties.  There's something so adorable yet so womanly about the sixties minidress.  This was probably the shortest LV show we've ever seen, with models paired up and decked out in huge, graphic checks, but it was no less impactful.  I felt like I was on a drug high (not that I would actually know what that feels like) and drifting through a loopy, rainbow world.  Bold and in your face, LV makes a great statement this season.  Full show here.

That's all I have for now in terms of the big names.  I might comment further on other collections as I go through them, but as always, I love posting about any collections you have to suggest!

Image Source: Style.com

Evanescent Metamorphoses

Karl Lagerfeld is one of the greatest people in fashion.  Out of all the designers in the world, he produces the highest number of collections per year, and even at the age of 77, there's nothing the Kaiser can't do.  It's well-known that Karl often makes his own films to go along with his collections, and I would like to bring one of these films to your attention.  I don't often watch fashion films, but this film that accompanies Chanel's Pre-Fall 2012 collection, called Evanescent Metamorphoses, is able to, in two short minutes, capture the essence of Chanel.  In the film, model Kristina Salinovic transforms from androgynous to feminine in a series of dream-like metamorphoses.



Despite the stark contrast of the first masculine look with the last ladylike look, every single outfit featured in the film is true to the image of Chanel.  Coco Chanel revolutionized fashion with her masculine suits, and this is demonstrated in the first half of the transformation with biker look that Karl has integrated into Chanel, and the classic Chanel tweed jackets.  And although Chanel's fashions took inspiration from menswear, there continued to be a certain feminine sophistication in her designs.  This is seen in the second half of the film with the jewelry, sheer fabric, and ruffles.  The Chanel woman has always been about these two opposites, and Karl effectively gives life to this in the film.  Aside from being a designer, Karl Lagerfeld is an artist, a celebrity, a photographer, a director...and the list goes on.  He might not know it, but he's constantly going through his own metamorphosis.

Video Source: Youtube

Chanel Resort 2012

As fashion prepares for it's Spring 2012 collections, Resort 2012 is already old news.  However, it's hard for me to refrain from sharing all the little fashion ideas/discoveries/rants that I have in my head.  But to spare you the nuisance of reading something that is so last month, I'll skip my review of Chanel Resort 2012, and instead, get straight to the good stuff.  Can I just say how amazing the black and white beach ensembles were?  Simple, strict, but oh-so-luxurious.

When Kristen McMenamy came out, it was definitely one of those "wow" moments.  Her look remains my favourite look from the collection...although those fabulously plush-looking Chanel blankets are vying for my attention.

Image Source: Style.com

Chanel Small Tote Bag

I'm just going to take a quick break from my Fashion Week marathon.  Some of you may remember that a couple months ago, I went to pick up a Louis Vuitton bag for a friend.  Today, I went to pick up a Chanel Small Tote Bag for her.  Funnily enough, there don't seem to be photos of it online, and the only photos I found were on replica websites.  So the photo below doesn't represent the bag in its best light:

Even though this may not be the best photo, the bag is still nothing to be in awe of.  I do believe my friend already owns a Chanel 2.55 (or something similar), and so I can understand why she would buy something in a different style.  But I would never spend my money on this bag.  The quilting is, of course, done perfectly in the way only Chanel can achieve, and the brushed gold logo is done to nice effect.  However, the resemblance of this handbag to a shopping tote - and not a nice shopping tote - is disappointing.  The size (about 29 cm) is also not the most flattering size to design a tote bag in.  It might look good with a fresh, summer outfit, but that limits the versatility of the bag.  Overall, I'd say "no" to this bag.  What do you think?

*Edit: The photo of the bag can no longer be found on the internet, and in fact, the replica website that I found the photo from has been shut down.

Image Source: Chanel

Chanel Spring 2011 Couture

The video for Chanel's Couture show has finally come out, allowing me to do a review (I don't like reviewing a collection without trying to see it in the closet way possible to the way a designer intends).  Chanel's last Spring Couture collection consisted of a bright, almost sci-fi shimmer, but for this collection, Lagerfeld introduced a softer, uplifting kind of shimmer.  The first part of the show was subdued, revealing the shimmer through detailing and sequined leggings (which are tailored beautifully to perfection):

Then came a smooth shift to a slightly more structured phase, with strict yet still soft, jackets and dresses:

The prim and polished then gave way to delicate, heavenly sparkle:

To take something as blunt as embroidery, and turn it into something as diaphanous as what we have just witnessed in this collection is all part of Lagerfeld's irreplicable skill.

Watch the entire show here.

Image Source: Style.com

Chanel Spring/Summer 2011 RTW

Seeing as Karl Lagerfeld is a genius, I've decided to skip my reviews of Viktor & Rolf, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent for the time being in favour of taking a look at Chanel.  You know that even if the clothes aren't their best (rarely happens), at least the runway will take your breath away (no one will ever forget the iceberg).  And not to mention, you can always look forward to catching a glimpse of Baptiste Giabiconi: tall, dark and unbelievably handsome...;)

But tear your eyes away, because you won't want to miss what Chanel has done for Spring/Summer 2011.  Set in an elegant gray garden with a stunning fountain, the first half of the collection contrasted against the clean lines of runway.  Several pieces had a splatter of impulsive cut-outs:

Classic Chanel tweed for Spring had an almost unfinished quality, with its frayed ends and feathery edges.

As the show progressed, the colours began to mirror those of the garden, but the rugged quality remained throughout, occasionally popping up among the Chanel suits with shorts, floral chiffon dresses, and long A-line skirts.

And with that, the show ended in a flurry of feathers, again bringing back the unfinished look, but in a much more elegant way.

Despite being cut and frayed, one can still see the dedication, love and quality that goes into crafting each piece.  What makes Karl a genius is that no matter what kind of inspiration he takes for his collections, it always ends up looking distinctly and impeccably Chanel.

Watch Part 1 of the show here, and Part 2 here.

Image Source: Style.com