Two Steps Forward, One Step Back

I was reading fellow blogger Edoardo's post about Alexander McQueen's hole heels way back when, and there's one thing I wish to quote from him:

"I love their innovation against the general boredom of the model: I mean, heelless heels?  Now they are everywhere...the absence of a heel is not even something interesting."  

When I read that, I was mentally nodding and agreeing with him.  But then I immediately caught myself, and thought, "Did I really just agree that heelless heels are nothing special?"

It dawned on me how critical we've become of fashion and how designers have to continually sweat it out each season to bring us something that will get our stamp of approval.  It's becoming harder and harder for designers to innovate, and there's no doubt they struggle to stay ahead of the ever forward moving interests of society.  Is not every design worthy of some praise, however simple?  Everything is about immediacy nowadays, and as fashion lovers, we hunger for the next new thing.  But the moment an innovation has been licked clean, we drop it like a bone and move on, scouring for our next target.

The inventions and innovations of the past were tremendous, and to try and equal that would require a truly groundbreaking feat.  Naturally, as time goes by, it will become more difficult to innovate.  I was reading a coffee table book titled Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century (a book I highly recommend for its spine-tingling, absolutely beautiful recounting of historical fashion), and I realized what it would take to equal the sheer magnitude of past innovations.  Whether it be Coco Chanel's androgyny, Rei Kawakubo's body-modifying designs, Elsa Schiaparelli's Surrealism or Christian Dior's New Look, there has been little in modern time that has shook the entire fashion world as these past innovations have. Yes, we've had our outstanding technological innovations, and I am hardly saying those are insignificant, but have we really had an innovation that has changed the way we dress?  We've shocked, but we haven't shook.

We've been exposed to absolutely everything in fashion, from meat dresses, to robotic skirts, to transparent crocodile skin.  We continue to set the bar for innovation higher and higher, to the point where there's really nothing we won't expect.  Ironic then, that we still search for innovation with such vigor.

With immediacy and accessibility showing no sign of relapse, I can assure you this hunger for innovation will not end any time soon.  While the world continues to look endlessly forward, I think I'll take some time to look back and marvel at a history I didn't live through, but which contains an abundance of great innovations, both small and revolutionary.

Image Source: Photo 1, 2, 3, 4

I see London, I see Stacy...

...I see also Clinton Kelly!  How could I have forgotten about this dynamic duo?

I remember that when I first started getting into fashion, What Not to Wear (WNTW) was my main source of knowledge; it was my first tool in learning the basic terminology of fashion. It was thanks to WNTW that I learned what a pencil versus an A-line skirt is, what an empire waist is, and most importantly, what Mom Jeans are. It was my weekly dose of knowledge, and although I felt strange saying that my favourite TV show was WNTW when all of my other classmates listed off drama series, I cannot stress enough how important WNTW was in helping a nerdy, completely-not-stylish girl like me actually sound knowledgeable in fashion. I couldn't walk the walk, but hey, at least I could talk the talk.

Stacy and Clinton taught me all the foundational rules about style, and it was from there that I later jumped off to dive into the actual world of fashion, where ALL the rules get broken. I moved on to reading fashion magazines, watching runway shows on Youtube, Google searching different types of fabric, reading up on the decades of fashion, familiarizing myself with Style.com, and finally, picking up my first copy of Vogue.  Through my whirlwind years of learning (and I'm still learning!), WNTW eventually dropped off my radar.

But after spontaneously deciding to write an essay on WNTW, I rediscovered my love for the show. I may be able to see through their not-so-subtle tactics of dramatization now, but the ethos of the show remains close to me. I had forgotten that Stacy was my very first style icon, and now I realize that she will always be my style icon. And Clinton, the "good cop" side of the duo, is just infinitely precious. Sadly, TLC recently announced that WNTW will stop production after its 10th season. 10 years of helping women discover confidence through their personal style…over. You can bet many people are having a cry over this, and I’m with them. The nostalgia is coming back in waves, and I will dearly miss the personality these two brought to our television screens. WNTW was there to support me during the years of my budding passion, and you can bet I’ll be there to support them during their graceful exit.

Image Source: Photo 1, 2, 3

Fall/Winter 2013 RTW

It's time to accept I need to make some changes to the way I do my Fashion Week Marathons, which obviously haven't been happening at all. I can't do justice to collections without proper comprehensive reviews, yet at the same time, I have so little time to allot to blogging now that I rather condense my thoughts than not get my thoughts out at all (I would burst without somewhere to vent my opinions, so thank you Red-Soled Fashionista for saving me from fashion angst). As you can see, I've also changed up the design of my blog a little. You might recall I said that I've always cared more about the content of my blog than its design, and trust me, that hasn't changed! But now that I've acquired Photoshop skills that I didn't have two years ago, it's time for my blog to reflect my growth. So here's another way I'm reflecting the change in my lifestyle: my Fall/Winter 2013 RTW summary. I'm forgoing the naive years when I typed out detailed collection reviews, and sharing with you my quick thoughts on standout collections:

Givenchy

Bambi at Givenchy, ladies and gents. I love it.  I don't generally squeal like a little girl over cute cartoons, but this is different. Bambi grunge is how the cool girls do it.  Beyond the Bambi print, it was really the oversized sweater and sheer skirt combos that I found to be so appealing. Give me any of the sweaters from the collection, seriously, any!  This collection was rich with textures and prints, and the deconstructed peplums kicked the prim and proper ones of yester-season out of the spotlight. The last time I fell for a RTW collection from Givenchy was Spring/Summer 2012, so this collection is very exciting. Judging from the loud cheers from the audience, I think they would agree.

Watch the full show here.

Balenciaga

I, among many others, was quite anxious to see what the newly appointed Alexander Wang would make of Balenciaga. Now that I've seen his first collection, however, I am slightly less enthused. The overall silhouettes were simple and underwhelming, but don't get me wrong, I do see potential. The construction was impressive, with pinched shoulders and "unzipped" backs that looked as if they might slip right off, but at the same time, were extremely sturdy. For the arbiter of New York street fashion to suddenly take the reins of a prestigious couture house takes time. I applaud Wang for showing us his versatility - his ability to rise up to changing expectations - for I didn't catch much of his own aesthetic in these clothes. I believe he will adapt to the Balenciaga brand, and once he does, he will experiment to great effect.

Watch the full show here.

Louis Vuitton

It took me a while to get into this collection, but looking back, I appreciate it so much. This collection was rich with undertones, so excuse me if I ramble on in awe. Firstly, the silky slips peeping out from mannish coats - the sexual tension could not be more palpable. It wasn't tacky in any way though; this was a woman of composure, stalking the streets with her supple leather bags and hems lightly dusted with sequins. But at the same time, this was not a woman of complete power. There was a hint of shame as she walked the streets of night back home. What happened, we wonder, behind those closed hotel doors? Her face was void of light, and even the music, however beautiful, was disconcerting. This was Marc Jacob's most provocative show yet, despite its muted demeanor. Luckily, Jacobs drew us from our melancholy contemplation by taking a bow in a set of red pajamas. The message of the show: our most intimate moments.

Watch the full show here.

Oscar de la Renta

So many things to touch on in this collection! My first thoughts as the show started actually had nothing to do with the clothes. It was "Oh my gosh, it's Jeanne Beker front row!", then "Ah, there's Bill Cunningham across from her! Aww he's smiling."  And then I noticed what they were both smiling at: a turquoise bar jacket ensemble. Wait, did I say bar jacket?  Yes, because guess who was backstage?  None other than John Galliano, who Oscar de la Renta invited last month to be a designer-in-residence. We assume he pitched into this collection, as there were definitely hints of signature Galliano. If we focus on just de la Renta for a second, I would like to say that this collection was a complete relief for me. For the past couple of seasons, de la Renta has unsuccessfully tried to appeal to a younger market with messy modifications to his otherwise clean design talent. This season, it was finally back to what de la Renta does best. Now if we focus on Galliano, I could almost cry. I've been so deprived of Galliano's designing that this collection is like a gem to me. However, if we take de la Renta and Galliano together, the collection ultimately becomes a slightly confusing, disjointed compilation. But under the circumstances, I can let that pass.

Watch the full show here.

Marchesa

Marchesa used to be one of the collections I most looked forward to. Every look used to be so flawless and stunning that I even dreamed of wearing a Marchesa dress to grad. I adored their romantic touches, exquisite construction, and at times, hauntingly ethereal dresses. Nonetheless, lately, Marchesa has taken a turn for the worse. Ever since Spring/Summer 2012, when Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig ditched their beautiful fashion presentations for runway shows, their designs have strangely also gone in decline. Spring 2012 and Fall 2012 were still quite striking, even if less intriguing. In Spring 2013, the decline was more obvious - an unappealing attempt at mashing all the decorations of India into short dresses and pants (pants at Marchesa??), or exaggerating their opulence into Hollywood gowns. And here we are a Fall 2013, where the draping has gone haywire, bunching at the most unflattering of places. The construction is messy, and all I can do is describe this collection in one word: wrinkled. There was at most a total of three good looks - much fewer than there used to be.

See the entire collection here.


That is surprisingly all for now! There are a large number of shows this season that aren't posted on Youtube in HD, and I never watch clips unless it covers the full show and it's in good quality. Otherwise, you fail to get a solid understanding of the collection, and you end up missing out on a lot of fascinating details if a blurry model walks past you at 360p or 480p. Marchesa is obviously the exception here, as I couldn't help but say something about the collection. More to come if I find myself itching to become vocal again about Fall/Winter 2013, and as always, I welcome any requests for collection reviews!

Image Source: Style.com

Little Black Desire

It's been a long time since I've done a post because school has been absolutely hectic lately (hello first all-nighter ever). But after taking a day off with my friends, I thought that instead of coming home to hit the books again, I'd end the smashingly good day with a blog post. When with friends, what else do you do but eat and shop?  Heading over to Club Monaco, I had already fallen in love with a blazer in the window front - before I had even stepped into the store!  Club Monaco has a pretty consistent track record of making me pine after at least one piece with every visit. While my friend expressed fears of trying on expensive clothing and being unable to buy it, I have no problems trying on the most gorgeous and unattainable things.  For me, it's all about admiring a garment the way it's meant to be admired: on yourself. When I leave a store empty-handed, I don't leave with a sense of longing regret, but a sense of happiness knowing that such a garment exists. So which garment made me leave today empty-handed, but with a smile? The Club Monaco Jamee Dress.

This photo certainly does not do justice to the dress. In real life, the dress is more formfitting, and in fact, it was because I could tell on the hanger that the dress was nicely cut that I picked it up in the first place. The stiff fabric tightly hugs curves in all the right ways, and even with my childish figure, I felt like such a woman in this dress. I could see myself bringing order to the boardroom in this dress, and stunning coworkers once we hit the bar for an after-work party (hey, a girl can dream, no?). The two zippers on each side emphasize the nipped waist, and I couldn't help but admire how I finally found a dress that seemed almost made-to-measure around the waist area. 

Never before have I felt the tightness of a well-fitting dress around the waist, and even though I walked out of the store knowing that I had left behind a feeling of confidence, I walked out smiling because I got a taste of what that kind of confidence feels like, and I know that a nipped-in zipper waist is not the only way to recreate it.

Image Source: Club Monaco

Golden Opportunity

I honestly tried my best to do a Fashion 2012: A Look Back post, but with only two weeks holiday, I wanted to spend as much time as possible with family and friends.  What I do have for you, however, is a recap of my Boxing Day window shopping.  The biggest trend I saw translated from the runway (namely Dolce & Gabbana) into retail stores was decadence. This Fall, it's all about gold, intricate brocade, and embellishment galore.  In other words, it's my kind of season.

7 For All Mankind

Having finally found a pair of pastel jeans over the summer, I moved on to my search for a great pair of printed pants (this is really the only downfall of fashion: my wardrobe is always missing something). I found it in 7 For All Mankind's Gold Foil Velvet Jeans.  After looking at all of Spring's floral prints, this gold brocade seemed so right.  It arouses a darker, more sumptuous appeal, and would be a fantastic casual evening look.  These pants are also worth every bit of praise for the velvet.  Velvet hugs the legs better, and for the first time in my life, I donned a pair of pants that did not bunch around my knees.  I am slightly knock-kneed from my low arches, so finding a good fitting pair of pants is difficult.  But these pants were perfectly fitted, and not to mention the perfect length!  The $300 price tag?  My only roadblock.

H&M

On the cheaper, but no less lovely, side, I tried on a pair of H&M Blue Brocade pants. My mom urged me to try the last pair of these pants, despite them being a size too big, and I'm glad I listened to her!  I instantly felt like an uptown girl lounging her way to Lincoln Centre for Fashion Week (I wish).  The perfectly placed pockets were so blasé, but the deep blue oriental brocade spoke otherwise. One day, I will find a pair of slim trousers like this worth investing in.  Watch out, Lincoln Centre, I'm coming.

Topshop

Topshop was the first stop I made on Boxing Day, but it actually turned out to be the most unfulfilling.  The sales were mediocre (although that can be said for all Boxing Day sales nowadays), and what I did try on didn't look great.  I had high hopes for this Star Glitter Velvet Bodycon Dress.  The velvet was, again, enchanting, but my major qualm was how cheaply made the glitter was.  The second I picked up the dress, gold glitter fluttered to the ground.  Don't even ask what happened when I put it on.  I spent the rest of my day with a face adorned with stray glitter.  I'm disappointed, Topshop!

Alice+Olivia

Alice+Olivia is one of my favourite labels.  Stacey Bendet always gets it right; everytime I'm at Holt Renfrew, something of hers always makes me stop and smile.  But I tried one of her skirts on Boxing Day and not even Alice+Olivia could cure me of my inability to look good in them.  The photo above is actually not the skirt I tried on, but it is similar.  What I tried on was a gold brocade print, ruffled, tiered skirt with an exposed zipper on the back.  I love skirts, but I would never wear a skirt so short I feel uncomfortable in it.  Sadly, the only way skirts look good is if they're around mid-thigh.  The shape of my legs does not allow for anything longer to look attractive, unless I'm wearing heels.  I also found the ruffles and tiers to be too childish.  It maybe would've worked if I were 10 years old and running around the playground, but if I were 10, why would I be wearing Alice+Olivia?

So it's clear by now I bought absolutely nothing on Boxing Day.  However, I have no regrets, because any money spent on the things I tried on would've been money wasted.  I gained the better reward of seeing all the rich, luxurious fashion this season.  Listen up, this season is the golden opportunity to indulge in your most succulent, opulent cravings.

Image Source: Seven, H&M, Topshop, Alice+Olivia

A Royal Review (And Rant)

I can never get through InStyle magazine.  By the time I'm a couple pages in, I already have an intense desire to whip it across the living room into an imaginary pit of fire.  Exaggerating?  Well, not really, actually.  InStyle lays claim to that middle ground between a fashion magazine and a celebrity gossip magazine.  I can handle celebrity gossip magazines because they are in their very nature sensational and completely pointless.  I would never in my life read one, but I let them be.  InStyle, on the other hand, promotes fashion through celebrity power.  Now that is annoying.  InStyle idolizes celebrities in their articles and every attempt I've made at trying to find an actual model among their pages has failed.  I'm much more interested in what an anonymous girl on the street is wearing than what some actress decided to sport while grocery shopping.  Tell me about a celebrity's next film/song/whatever it is they're actually supposed to be famous for, and I'm all ears, but what she's wearing?  Is that supposed to change my opinion of her?

So, on that completely relevant note, some may consider Kate Middleton a celebrity, but in my eyes, she is nothing like that.  She is an incredibly intelligent woman who has handled the limelight and responsibility of royalty with a sort of dignity, grace, warmth and style that not even a seasoned celebrity can aspire to. She is not a celebrity; she is us.  And because of that, I have no shame in blogging about her.  Everything she's worn has been a fashion hit, but here is a look at some of my favourites:

Alexander McQueen

As if her wedding dress wasn't gorgeous enough, her post-wedding ensemble stunned me.  The entire look is so perfectly polished it shines like a diamond, but that fuzzy cropped jacket tops it off like a cherry, exuding warmth and approachability.  Every woman wants to look drop dead gorgeous on her wedding day, and Kate can put a large checkmark beside that.

Erdem

I adore Erdem because it's a label that allows me to shamelessly indulge in my love of all things lacy.  Being one of the looks worn during her Canadian tour, this dress holds a special place in my heart despite its otherwise simple demeanor.

Alexander McQueen

This look is another simple one, but the colour is utter perfection.  The lilac, being so light as to almost pass for white, makes the gown both ethereal and glamorous - a unique combination.  On any other person, the gown might be a typical red carpet choice, but a touch of royalty makes it an instant hit.

Jenny Packham

I first saw this dress while waiting for my groceries to be scanned - no doubt it made waiting in line much more enjoyable.  The intricacy of the beading and sequin design resembles the detail of a mermaid tail.  An aquatic goddess, but in soft pink, making this yet another glamorous and ethereal combination.

Prabal Gurung

Kate shows us she can go bold too!  Admittedly, I absolutely loved the collection this dress came from (I'm still yearning for those sheer pants with dripping, purple liquid down the thighs), so I may be biased.  Nonetheless, this was a bold, artistic move for Kate and a definite eye-catcher.

Beulah London

If I ever needed something to describe the word "angelic", this would be it.  Everything about this look was so heart-achingly beautiful.  Soft, kind, respectful...never have I seen an outfit I would attribute such a personality to.  People Magazine can speculate all they want about The Most Beautiful Woman, but step aside celebrities, because the crown of that title belongs to Kate.

Image Source: Wedding, Erdem, McQueen, Prabal, Packham, Mosque

Maison Martin Margiela for H&M

I know, I know...old news yet again.  Shame on me.  But ever since I started this blog, I have not failed to do a review on every one of H&M's collaborations.  I'm not going to break that tradition now!

First things first: Maison Martin Margiela.  When I heard the news, shrieking at my indifferent laptop might be an apt description of my response.  Margiela is not only one of the most avant-garde labels out there, it's also one of the most mysterious.  With no one at the helm, it's really more of an abstract entity of fashion talent.  Just imagining a radical, yet so elusive and secretive label collaborating with H&M was too much to bear.

There really is no point spending too much time on whether the results of this collaboration are true to the Margiela label.  I think that is obvious enough.  Being the most avant-garde collaboration H&M has done, I think it's fair to say the Margiela image is undoubtedly present.

What is worth talking about, however, is the quality and style of the pieces.  With H&M collaborations, there is always the fear of a cheaply made high fashion look.  But with Margiela, there seems to be no problem whatsoever.  Perhaps it's because Margiela always focused more on construction that it's really the architecture of these H&M pieces that make it look like quality Margiela.

And that brings me to style.  These H&M pieces are beautifully dramatic; they are unlike anything you will ever find in a regular shopping mall (until now).  There will always be the critics, lamenting how unwearable these fashions are, but life would be so boring if everything you wore was predictable.  These are standout pieces made for a woman with standout taste. 

Consisting of oversized silhouettes and masculine cuts, it quietly encapsulates the love of living, freedom and expression.  They say it's a woman's character that gets her noticed, but hey, I'm just saying, these clothes help.

As I mentioned last time with Lanvin, Versace, and Marni, I had yet to see an H&M collaboration where both the clothes and the accessories were a hit.  This time, there's no question about it: the accessories are amazing.

Plexiglass heels, candy wrapper clutches, and gloved handbags.  I love these accessories beyond belief.  And much like the clothing, there's a surprising high quality feel to them.  This H&M collaboration was perfect in every conceivable way.  Is this my favourite H&M collaboration of all time?  Oh gosh, you can bet it is.

See the entire collection here.

Image Source: Logo, Fashionologie, Vogue, Flare, Shoes, Bag1, Bag2